第 27 卷第 7 期（2020）

本研究以靛藍染料為主要提取目標，在相同的材料下，以不一樣的程序來提取藍泥，並探討其提取量、藍泥特性與傳統法所獲取者間之差異性。由實驗結果顯示，將發酵後液體直接加入新鮮葉子中，可以製造出最多的藍泥。隨著培養方法的不同，產量有明顯的上升。不同天數及培養液多寡，也可以造成其產量的變化。固定天數的B-3因為培養液為最多而有較高的收率，培養七天的B-4樣品中也因為培養時間較長而有最大量的產量。利用UV光譜表示改良B-1有最高的吸光度值。

In this study, indigo dye was the main extraction target. With the same material, the difference in output amount and property of blue mud between traditional and various improved extraction procedures were discussed. The results show that adding the fermented liquid directly to the fresh leaves can produce the most amount of blue mud. With different cultivation methods, the yield has increased significantly. Different days and the amount of culture medium can also cause changes in its yield. B-3 with a fixed number of days has a higher yield due to the largest amount of culture medium. Again…

本專題研究乃使用目前染整業用以染色打樣之甘油浴式高溫高壓染色機，針對直接染料染棉織物，染後的試布以Datacolor電腦測配系統分光儀讀取K/S值來判斷其上色的效果，另分析Lab值來瞭解各試布色彩在色彩空間的分布，並進行比對。期盼得到較正確的上色結果，對染整工業有所助益。

To obtain the dyed cotton fabrics which dyed with direct dyes, we utilized HT, HP – Rapid Dyeing Machine. The fabrics detected by Datacolor Color-match System (SF600 PLUS-CT) to have K/S values, then evaluated the effectiveness of dyeing. Then, we analyzed Lab values to realize the distribution of colors in the color space. We expect the results which we conclude are useful for dyeing industries.

近年來在台灣重視文化創意與回歸傳統生命源頭的呼聲下，促使傳統藍染工藝與技藝漸漸復甦。天然染色藍染布料色澤美，有一股芳草的香氣，具有防蟲、抗菌效果，穿著時可保護皮膚，可解決流汗所產生細菌的滋生，特別適合小孩、孕婦或高齡者、病患、醫護人員等須穿著抗菌衣物者，藉以防止細菌入侵身體。根據相關文獻顯示，藍染布均以天然纖維布料為主，但隨著時代進，纖維科技的發展下，許多人造纖維具有天然纖維沒有的優點，例如縲縈纖維具有吸濕排汗的特性。故本研究計畫將以藍靛應用在天然纖維棉和人造纖維的縲縈混紡布料，同時進行藍染1次~20次染色工程，接續將藍染布進行抗菌測試，探討不同比例之人造混紡布料與天然棉布料吸附藍靛染料上的色彩表現及其抗菌性的效果，進行分析探討，是否具有特殊不同的地方，最後求出最佳抗菌效果之藍染布料，穿著時可使人體獲得最佳天然藍染的抗菌防護。

As people in Taiwan pay more attention to cultural creativity and returning to tradition and life sources during the last few years, traditional Indigo dyeing process and technique have revived again. In terms of natural dyeing, Indigo dyed fabric is beautiful in color and has a pleasant fragrant. It has anti-pest and anti-bacterial effects. When wearing it, it protects the skin and prevents the breeding of bacteria caused by sweating and so it is especially suitable for children and pregnant women and people such as elderly, patients, medical staff who need to wear anti-bacterial clothes in …

本研究將櫺格菱花圖案結合數位印花應用於服裝設計，探索菱花圖案在服裝設計上更多的可能，查詢相關文獻了解菱花圖案的特色及樣式，參考其規則的幾何紋應用於服裝設計，並閱讀相關書籍進行更深入的了解。六件系列作品，分別將印花布用於上衣、褲子、裙子，參考中國傳統服飾設計復古民族風感，在色彩上使用鮮豔的對比色，紅橘、黃、藍綠色系，呈現如系劇般虛幻的氛圍。

This study applies the diamond flower pattern combined with digital printing to the clothing design, exploring the more possibilities of the diamond flower pattern in the clothing design. Query relevant literature to understand the characteristics and style of the rhomboid pattern, refer to the geometric pattern of its rules for clothing design, and read related books for a deeper understanding. Six series of works, which are used for tops, trousers and skirts, with reference to traditional Chinese costumes. Use bright contrasting colors in colors, red orange, yellow, and blue-green to cre…

本實驗利用假撚機及聚酯纖維之熱可塑性，對物理性質產生變化；製作出彈性及毛性加工紗。由研究結果得知，溫度設定200℃、撚度在2400T/M、Air jet壓力於2.4kg/cm2，可得較佳之纖維型態。複合纖維芯線，由纖維直徑DPF較大者，可得到高強度纖維、反撥性佳及高彈性力之物理特性；皮線以纖維直徑較小之DPF，可獲得較柔軟之觸感。利用假撚機加工條件之4T取適當參數，即可得良好彈性回復力及柔軟度。

In the experiment, the physical properties of the polyester fiber have been changed after the processing by the false twisting machine. The product has good the elastic and wool like, which called processing yarns. According to the fiber has better properties by these parameters which are 200℃, the twist 2400 T/M and Air jet pressures 2.4kg/cm2. The composite fiber core wire has been divided two types by DPF. The bigger DPF diameter of the fiber, has high-strength, good backlash and high elastic force properties. On the other hand, smaller DPF diameter of the fiber, has softer touch. Good ela…

本研究係使用5支藍色分散性染料在不同濃度(1%, 2%, 4%, 8% o.m.f.)以傳統高溫高壓染色與濃度 1% o.m.f.以超臨界二氧化碳進行染色後，檢測其表觀色濃度(K/S值)，藉此找出相對上色率高且適合用於超臨界二氧化碳染色之染料。實驗結果發現染料BLUE A與染料BLUE B表觀濃度值相對較低不適合用於超臨界二氧化碳染色，而染料BLUE C及染料BLUE D雖然表觀濃度值趨近傳統高溫高壓染色(4% o.m.f.)，由於一次上色率不佳，可能也不適合用於超臨界二氧化碳染色，只有染料BLUE E表觀濃度值夠高，一次上色率也達90.477%，應較適合用於超臨界二氧化碳染色。 最後經染色堅牢度結果得知各染色布樣的各項染色堅牢度都達到4級均符合商業需求。

In this study, five blue disperse dyes were dyed at different concentrations (1%, 2%, 4%, 8% o.m.f.) at a high temperature and high pressure dyeing method and dyeing with supercritical carbon dioxide at 1% o.m.f. . The apparent color strength (K/S value) was used to find dyes with the high relative rate of dye uptake and suitable dyes for supercritical carbon dioxide dyeing. The result showed that dye uptake of Dye BLUE A and Dye BLUE B are lower, so these dyes are not suitable for supercritical carbon dioxide staining. The apparent color strength values of Dye BLUE C and Dye BLUE D tend to b…

本研究《手并》之意象為利用「俄羅斯方塊」排列組合形式，並轉換磁鐵成為磁釦之方式運用在袋包。研究方法一為「文獻分析法」，從各類文獻資料，了解俄羅斯方塊之起源與特色，並且分析其如何應用在袋包；研究方法二為「創作理念實踐」，研究者進行以「俄羅斯方塊」為中心之《手并》主題袋包設計，設計六款袋包，分別為手提肩背兩用包、手拿包、晚宴包，以及側背包，將俄羅斯方塊之元素融入袋包設計，也將磁鐵吸附力之原理應用於袋包，期望打破俄羅斯方塊只能在電腦螢幕觀看之刻板印象，色彩配置運用2018年流行色，呈現未來時尚感。

本研究以不同短纖紡紗所紡紗線為研究對象，選用目前受到重視的兩種機能性短纖纖-天絲(Tencel)以及異型斷面聚酯短纖維原料，以Compact、Siro Compact、MVS以及改良Siro紡紗方式餵入一根長纖維的Sirofil紡紗，紡製成Ne32混紡紗，探討上述不同紡紗方式對紗線品質、物性與所織成的單面鍍圈針織織物起毬性的影響。實驗結果可知紗線品質中，強伸度部分以Siro Compact＞Compact＞MVS＞Sirofil，而在織物抗起毬測試中則以MVS紡紗得到的級數為佳，Siro Compact與Compact次之，Sirofil則較低。

In this study, the yarns spun from different short-staple spinning yarns were selected as the research object. Two kinds of functional staple fiber-Tencel and special-shaped cross-section polyester staple fiber materials are selected, which are Compact, Siro Compact and MVS. And the improved Siro spinning method is fed a long fiber Sirofil spinning yarn and spun into Ne32 blended yarn to explore the different spinning methods for the yarn quality, physical properties and the woven on plate knitting fabric's impact. The experimental results show that the yarn quality is in the range of Siro Co…

幾丁質（Chitin）存在於節肢動物的外骨骼、烏賊軟骨及真菌的細胞壁中，是僅次於纖維素存量位居第二位的天然聚合物，幾丁質的化學結構是由N-乙醯葡萄糖胺（N-acetylglucosamine , NAG）以β-1,4 鍵結聚合而成，NAG近年來已發現許多生理功能，包括關節炎治療以及腸胃道發炎疾病治療等。本研究將台灣常見之真菌類－杏鮑菇、金針菇及台灣毛黴等原料，分別經過鹼處理或酸處理後，乾燥處理得到細胞壁。本公司專利菌株Chitinibacter tainanensis已知可分解幾丁質生產NAG，因此將乾燥處理後之細胞壁，用發酵方式獲得NAG，並探討上述三種真菌類之NAG產率。

Chitin exists in the arthropod exoskeletons, squid cartilage and fungal cell walls, and is the second-largest natural polymer after cellulose stocks. The chemical structure of chitin is determined by N-acetylglucosamine (NAG),which is polymerized with β-1,4 bonds. NAG has discovered many physiological functions in recent years, including arthritis treatment and gastrointestinal inflammatory disease treatment. In this study, the common fungi in Taiwan, such as Pleurotus eryngii, Flammulina velutipes, and Mucor, were treated with alkali or acid, and then dried to obtain cell walls. The patented…

本研究是利用幾丁聚醣分別與2種N-(羧烷基)三苯基溴化鏻化合物(CATPPs)反應而得2種四級鏻化幾丁聚醣衍生物(NQPCS)。利用L929纖維母細胞來評估藥物對於其細胞成長活性與細胞毒性，並以此實驗測得其細胞相容性。本研究證明所合成之藥物NQPCS能應用於紡織領域、化妝品及生物醫學等用途。

In this study, we used chitosan to react with 2 kinds of N-(carboxyalkyl) triphenylphosphonium bromide compounds (CATPPs)to obtain two kinds of N-quaternary phosphoniun chitosan derivatives (NQPCS). The cytocompatibility were tested by using L929fibroblasts to evaluate the medicine effect for proliferation and cytotoxicity. This project is about to prove the medicine NQPCS can be applied in textiles, cosmetic and biomedical fields.