第 23 卷第 1 期（2016）

銅線/鎳線/鋁線三種金屬線的導電性與導磁性加上平紋織物的類比網路吸收體之結構，於吸收體中加入不導電、不導磁之圓形吸收體PE/PP管，藉由改變金屬導線線徑、塑膠管徑、碳纖維根數及頻率變因來探討對電磁波吸收值之影響。結果為當線徑1.0mm時，電磁波易反射，相對吸收效果不好，當線徑0.25mm時，吸收效果不佳，當線徑0.5mm時，銅線的導電性最佳，有最佳吸收值34dB，99.9%的吸收率。當PE管管徑12mm時，有最佳吸收值34dB，具有99.9%的吸收率。當增加緯向碳纖維根數5根時，導電性增加，吸收效果也隨之提升，有最佳電磁波吸收效果36dB，99.9%的吸收率。銅線在6～7.5GHz有最佳吸收頻段，鋁線在5.5～7GHz有最佳吸收頻段。而導磁性質鎳線與碳纖維的結合在4～5.5GHz有最佳吸收頻段。

This study use of copper / nickel wire / aluminum three conductivity and magnetic permeability coupled with plain wire fabric to absorb analogy network structure, and in the absorber added non-conductive, non-magnetic tube of round absorber PE / PP pipes, by changing the diameter of the metal wire, plastic tube diameter, number of carbon fibers and frequency variations due to discuss the impact on the value of the absorption of electromagnetic waves. As a result of the small chance diameter 1.0mm, easy reflection of electromagnetic waves, the relative absorption ineffective, when diameter 0.2…

In recent year, the demand of conductive fabric is growing up. The electrical properties in the textile have provided an additional value than traditional textile. Therefore, the control of electrical conductivity has become feasible for those applying into textile or functional clothe. In order to produce variety electrical levels correspond to the particular purpose of products, the relationship between production conditions and conductivity characteristics of conductive fabric is investigated. Due to increasing of efficiency and reducing of the variation in process, the Taguchi method was…

染整廠針對聚酯織物染色時只考量部份可控因子(昇溫曲線&染料類別)，對染色製程亦無法合理計算及有效控制，染料變數也只能依據染料類別或染料對溫度之依存性作為染色配方為參考依據，因此本研究主題針對聚酯織物染色?值 (T20、T50、T90) 及染料組合相容性，藉由OPTILAB分析試驗參數調控達到精緻化染色效果之目標。依據本試驗結果得知，先期染色製程試驗，總染程共花費196分鐘，上色率92%。調控助劑使用量， 上色率92%，無法提升上色率。經由OPTILAB分析T20、T50、T90數值得知，30℃~130℃間染色效益不佳，調整染色製程，可縮短染程時間20分鐘，上色率可達96%，最終殘液吸收率4%，且染料三原色一致性。

Dyeing and finishing plant only considered part of the controllable factors (temperature curve & dye category) when polyester fabric dyeing. Dyeing process will not be able to calculate reasonably and effective control. The dyes' variables as the reference for dyeing formulations could only according to dyes' category or temperature dependence. Therefore, we study for polyester fabric dyeing value (T20, T50, T90) and compatibility test of dye compositions by regulation of OPTILAB parameters analyzing. Experimental results show that, In advance dyeing process experimental, the total dye proces…

將3×3高強力聚酯合股索經異氰酸化合物改質表面，使其與RFL藥劑具有良好的鍵結性質，並以工廠線上溫度第三及第六道溫度為225℃及230℃為依據，使其降低溫度，分別為160℃及205℃、160℃、230℃，並配合固成份22%、22.25%、22.5%及施加荷重1.0kg及1.5kg，觀察合股索物性變化。研究得知，將溫度下降，能夠提升其物性，但使RFL藥劑包覆纖維情況不完整，而改變固成份含量，能夠提升RFL藥劑包覆纖維之情況，因此可以利用提升固成份含量，將降低溫度造成包覆未完全之現象，予以改善，達到降低能源成本，並提升物理性質之條件。

The 3×3 high strength polyester ply cord modified surface by the isocyanate compound, let RFL and that modified surface with great bonding properties. According to temperature of the third and sixth channel in line of factory temperature set of 225 and 230℃, and lowering the temperature, respectively, experiment A lowering third and sixth channel in line to 160 and 205℃, experiment B lowering third and keep sixth channel in line to 160 and 230℃, and with solid ingredient of 22.00, 22.25, 22.50% and load to 1.0 and 1.5 Kg, observed changes of physical properties of the ply cord. Research that,…

天然染料色彩的呈現會因生長環境及氣候等眾多因素的影響有所差異，與化學染料最大差別在於其成份複雜，而且無法如顏料三原色般精準地調和出各種顏色，然數千年來先民已累積深厚的染色工藝技術，並透過不同套色復染的方式，染出豐富的色彩。本研究即以《天工開物》記載之藍靛套染方法為主，藉由了解傳統天然藍靛、蘇木染料之特性，重新檢視染色工序的各項因素，透過實際操作，探討在染料濃度相同的情況下，以相同的材質與染色次數，在不同的方式時進行復染，找出最佳的染色方式，進而增加天然藍靛染色色彩之豐富性。

Natural dyes are extracted from the plants and animals that the colors will present in different ways due to the climate, the environments and the other factors. The biggest difference between the chemical dying materials and natural dying materials as its composition, it complex and difficult to color harmony as the three primary pigments. The ancients have invention by the chromatic stained which it can offer variety of colors. However, some colors can not get from the plants, such as green or purple. In this study, we focus on the method from the record of "Exploitation of the works of Nat…

本實驗係利用去氧核醣核酸具有吸附帶有平面苯環化合物之特性在不同酸鹼環境下對吸附各種染料的探討，其具有良好的水溶性，因此本實驗嘗試以水溶性之去氧核醣核酸探討其對各種染料的吸附狀況。結果顯示去氧核醣核酸不但能吸附不同性質的染料，在不同的酸鹼值吸附效果均不同。

In this study，deoxyribonucleic acid was used as raw material since its excellent adsorption property of benzene compounds. Deoxyribonucleic acid is very easy dissolve in water,，so we try to use the soluble deoxyribonucleic to probe the state of many kinds of dyes absorbed. The results indicate that deoxyribonucleic acid is not only adsorbing different dyes but also having different effect at different pH environment.

成衣生產與量身訂製服之成本相較之下，更加便宜且快速省時，成衣生產以機械大量生產，成本相對較低，女性可從外形、美觀以及舒適程度來挑選褲子，穿著褲子時不僅能方便活動、感到舒適，又能展現身材。本研究針對女性水洗彈性褲之褲襠版型進行實驗，主要分析褲子版型內柱是否有走路腿的現象，並發放問卷調查樣褲水洗前後外觀的接受度，研究結果發現：人體在穿著傾斜量7.5cm之樣褲時，不論水洗前或水洗後的外觀接受度皆為最高，穿著於人體時效果最佳。在樣褲穿著效果方面，穿著樣褲呈蹲姿時，水洗前的傾斜量3.5cm之樣褲效果最為舒適；水洗後穿著效果最佳的是傾斜量為7.5cm之樣褲。

In comparison of the cost between apparel and hand-made clothing production, apparel production is cheaper and fast time-saving owing to mass production. Female customers tend to purchase pants from the views of appearance and comfort so that they may feel comfort and show their body shapes during various activities. The crotch pattern of water washable female elastic pants have been investigated in this study. The pant pattern was analyzed to find if there is the phenomenon of walking legs and a survey was performed with questionnaires regarding the appearance acceptance of pants before and …

Serious regional pollution of air, water and soil has become the focus of the whole society. Low carbon transition as well as sustainable development is the key task for textile industry since it is one of industry with high energy consumption, GHG emissions and pollution. The calculation of the carbon footprint for textile products will be very helpful to change current status. However, it is still an international problem to calculate the industry carbon footprint (ICF) of the textile and apparel quickly and accurately. On the basis of modular theory, this paper aim to solve above-mentioned…

彩色精?(Color mothball) 為日常生活常用之物。近年來銷售據點擴及東南亞、南美等地；由於這些地區民族習慣的影響，偏好色彩鮮豔、色相豐富，衍生了精?染色工藝。精?使用上隨著光照時間影響，顏色有衰變退色現象，對於銷售市場是不利的。本研究致力於協助中國鋼鐵公司(China Steel Corporation)精?生產銷售中所遇到的染色衰變退色問題，探討其使用不同染料染色，評估光照時間對於精?色彩品質影響。實驗使用紫外光源測試精?之色彩變退色，藉由實驗找出適用於精?的耐日光性、顏色變褪色差值小的染料；並利用FT-IR及GC/MS分析討論精?之成分和探討精?紫外光照實驗後的結構變化。從研究中確實可找出應用於精?的日光牢度佳的染料，其中黃色系以Janie pigment 1T、紅色系以C.I. 45430:1、綠色系以Janie pigment 187有滿足紡織市場各種應用需求。本研究效益確實使中國鋼鐵公司(China St…

Color mothball is a daily necessity in Southeast Asia and South America. It was used to resist insects, mothproof and mildew with a special odor. In other words, the odor was thought unpleasant enough to drive animals away in repellent products. Color mothball have color fastness in use. It is unfavorable on market. This research analyzed color mothball which was manufactured by China Steel Corporation. The experiment of color fastness with UV-light test is to determine how much the color will fade, when it exposed to a known ultraviolet light source. In the last analysis, the experimental da…

本實驗主要研究碳纖維複雜組織織物的耐熱性能，首先以碳纖維?經紗、聚酯長絲/聚丙烯長絲?緯紗，織製經二重組織織物和上下接結組織織物，然後對織物進行熱處理，測量比較熱處理前後織物的尺寸、斷裂伸長率和斷裂?力的變化。結果得知100℃下，織物性能基本不變；200℃下，織物經緯向的各個性能發生變化。研究測試織物的耐熱性能，更加明確了其使用範圍及限制，?進一步研究織物在工程用木質複合材料上的應用提供依據。

The heat resistant properties of the carbon fiber composed weave fabric were mainly studied by this experiment. Firstly warp rib weave fabric and face warp stitching duplex weave fabric were woven with carbon fiber as warp yarn and polyester filament/polypropylene filament yarn as weft, and then heated at different temperature, at the last, tested and compared dimensional shrinkage, elongation at break the and breaking strength of the fabric before and after heat treatment. The results show that under 100 ℃, the performances basically remain unchanged; Under 200 ℃, the performances of warp/we…