第 22 卷第 5 期（2015）

Original and/or functionalized nanosilica particles (NSIx, FNSIxmy) with a quoted specific surface area of 100, 300 and 600 m2/g, respectively, were used to investigate the influence of specific surface areas of nanosilica particles on ultradrawing and ultimate tensile properties of UHMWPE (F100), UHMWPE/nanosilica (F100NSIxz) and UHMWPE/functionalized nanosilica (F100FNSIxmy-z) fibers. The specific surface areas of well dispersed FNSIxmy nanofillers in F100FNSIxmy-z fibers can positively affect their ultradrawing, orientation, ultimate tensile properties and “micro-fibrils” morphologies. E…

鳥眼織物作為一種緯編針織物越來越受到人們的關注，由於其良好的熱舒適性能其被廣泛應用於內衣和家用紡織品。本文在圓型緯編電腦提花大圓機上試織了15種鳥眼織物，其中包括選用不同的織物密度不同的花型大小、不同的襯緯紗等；並利用KES-F系統對其保暖性和透氣性進行測試。研究結果得知，相同密度條件下花型越大所形成鳥眼織物的透氣性能越差，保暖性能越好；襯緯紗線支數越大其保暖性能越好；相同紗支數條件下襯緯紗為聚酯高彈絲的鳥眼織物，其保暖性能優於毛紗與棉紗。

Ticking fabrics which were knitted on weft circular machines has attracted more and more attention. They are widely used in underwear and household textile for good thermal comfort. Fifteen ticking fabrics were knitted on a computerized jacquard circular knitting machine with different density (loop length) , weft knit patterns and laying-in yarns. Their thermal insulation and air permeability were tested with the Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabrics (KES-F). The results show that ：with the same density, ticking fabric with bigger pattern has poorer air permeability and better warmth reten…

依據競爭力評價理論和可持續發展理論，分析我國紡織服裝?業競爭力的內涵與特徵, 分析影響紡織服裝?業可持續發展競爭力的主要因素，遵從科學性、系統性、可操作性原則，運用網絡層次分析法（ANP），構造我國紡織服裝?業可持續發展競爭力評價模型；依據該模型總體框架， 結合我國紡織服裝?業發展的階段和實際，考慮數據獲取的可能性和科學性，確定了我國紡織服裝?業可持續發展競爭力指標體系和指標權重。

Increasing concerns with the consequences of environmental pollution turns scrutiny towards transformation and upgrading as well as sustainable development for textile and apparel industry. Within this context, we analyze the indicators that impact the competitiveness of sustainable development for textile and apparel industry and build the evaluation model of competitiveness based on analytic network process theory. The index system of evaluating the competitiveness of sustainable development for textile and apparel industry and their respective weights can be determined to present the manag…

本文以天然木棉和滌綸兩種中空纖維?原料，加入低熔點聚丙烯/聚乙烯皮芯型複合纖維（ES），以氣流-成網-熱黏合工藝製備出高孔隙纖維吸油絮片。研究得知，木棉/PET吸油絮片的孔隙率高達98.02%。純油浴中，單位吸油絮片可分別吸收63.00g、58.50g和43.81g的機油、植物油和柴油，並在懸掛靜態24h後，保留住80% 以上的吸附油液。油水選擇性吸附中，木棉/PET吸油絮片對水面浮油的去除效果達97% 以上，並表現出突出的油水選擇性（吸油量比吸水量大於33）。

Structured fibrous padding made by kapok and hollow PET fibers as highly porous oil sorbent was prepared by novel air-laying-bonding with introduction of polypropylene/polyethylene sheath-core composite fibers (ES). It was found that as prepared kapok/PET padding had a porosity up to 98.02%. In pure oil sorption tests, per unit mass of kapok/PET padding absorbed 63.00g, 58.50g, 43.81g of engine oil, vegetable oil and diesel, respectively. The oil saturated padding could retain over 80% absorbed oils even after 24h dripping. When applied on oil-over-water baths, kapok/PET padding exhibited exc…

蛋白質超細纖維支架在成分和結構上具有類比細胞外基質的潛力，但往往水穩定性較差，在細胞培養環境中而難以維持超細纖維結構，因此需要進行改性處理。本研究針對植物蛋白、寡基蛋白二維靜電紡超細纖維體系以及三維相分離超細纖維體系的特點，開發基於檸檬酸的無毒交聯處理方法。研究證明，檸檬酸無毒交聯體系可有效提高蛋白質超細纖維支架的水穩定性，纖維支架具有良好的生物相適性，具有促進附著與增殖等細胞行為的功能。

Protein-based scaffolds have the potential to mimic the native extracellular matrices, but they suffer from the poor water stability, especially those with ultrafine fibrous structures. Therefore, modifications are required. In this research, the crosslinking modifications using citric acid as the crosslinker were developed based on the properties of 2D electrospun and 3D phase separated fibers from plant proteins or proteins with limited available functional groups. It was proven that the citric acid modifications could efficiently improve the water stability of the protein ultrafine fibrous…

本創作探討墊肩的由來與知名服裝設計師所設計之墊肩款式服裝，將此概念應用於袋包設計，從多種角度發展創作，探析墊肩與包款中更多的創作可能，在配色與技法找尋時尚與傳統的平衡點，使整體感不突兀亦能呈現時尚品味。研究方法一為「文獻分析法」，從文獻資料分析墊肩的起源與特色，以及與墊肩相關之服裝；方法二為「創作理念實踐」，研究者進行以「武裝」為主題之袋包設計，創作三件系列袋包作品，分別為公事包、波士頓包，以及倒T型包，將墊肩的元素融入袋包設計，希望打破墊肩輪廓僅應用於服裝之傳統框架，在色彩採用黑與白搭配，並以金色五金使作品在素樸之無彩色中呈現華麗感，在細部設計上運用層次立體感，讓墊肩輪廓也能夠在袋包設計些微的變化下有了新意。

This study investigate the origin of the creation of the shoulder pads and shoulder pads, designed for the well-known fashion designer clothing styles, this concept is applied to the bag design, creative development from a variety of points, shoulder pads in more creative possibilities in color and technique to find fashion and traditional balance, and the overall feeling is not unexpected can also exhibit fashion sense. A research method is "literature analysis," the origins and characteristics of shoulder pads and shoulder pads associated with the clothing from the literature data analysis;…

為迎接數位化學習時代，教學從單一的傳統模式教學逐漸至磨課師(MOOCs)的數位學習模式之教學，期許藉由創造更符合個人化需求的學習管道，自主的教育學習環境。目前大專院校之時尚設計系所亦將電腦繪圖設計能力指標設為畢業生所應具備之基本技能，運用磨課師的數位學習模式的教學，強化電腦繪圖設計課程之教學學習成效，以提升教學效益以及學生的就業能力。本文主要探討設計系所的電腦繪圖設計課程實施磨課師的數位學習模式的教學後學習滿意成效之調查。經由結果顯示，電腦繪圖設計課程實施磨課師的數位學習模式的教學後，在才能增進、應用程度、及教學滿意度層面皆有顯著的助益以及設計專業能力與技術能力有效提升更加顯著。

In a digital learning era, conventional teaching model has gradually transformed into a digital learning model that incorporates massive open online courses, with the goal of creating an autonomous educational learning environment in which means of learning fulfill individual needs. Currently, fashion design departments in vocational schools have adopted computer-aided design and drafting capability as the basic skills requirement of university graduates. Therefore, applying MOOC-based digital learning in teaching to strengthen students’ learning effectiveness in computer-aided design and dra…

本研究主要針對純棉與混紡紗線經不同的追撚加工條件下所得紗線進行織物之相關物性評估討論，主要之物性研究包含織物布厚、覆蓋率、瞬間接觸涼感值Q-max、水份擴散面積與乾燥速率。由實驗結果可知，紗線經過撚紗加工後，由於紗線產生撚縮加上織物退漿精練漂白製程中之染縮，使得所得布樣之布厚隨著所追撚度的增加而逐漸增厚。布樣之覆蓋率亦隨著紗線撚度變化所產生之撚縮增加而上升。在純棉紗的部分，隨著所追撚度的提升Q-max值微幅增加。在混紡紗的部分，由於紗線中含有含水率較低之聚酯纖維，而使混紡紗之Q-max普遍比純棉紗為低。另混紡紗在追撚及精練製程之熱縮後，其織物瞬間接觸涼感Q-max反而隨著紗線追撚撚度的提升反而下降。不論純棉或混紡紗，隨著所追撚度的提升，布樣之水分擴散面積呈現下降的趨勢。在乾燥速率的檢測結果可看出，隨著紗線所追撚度的提升，布樣之乾燥速率(殘餘水分率)則呈現增加的趨勢。

In this study, the twisting effect of cotton and blended yarn were studied on the physical and functional properties of their woven fabric. Main properties included fabric thickness, coverage, Q-max, water diffusibility and drying rate. From the results, it is obvious that the fabric thickness and coverage increased with increasing the yarn twisted (TPM). From Q-max results, the Q-max of fabric of cotton yarn increased with increasing TPM of yarn, the Q-max of fabric of T/C blended yarn decreased with increasing TPM of blended yarn, and the fabric Q-max of cotton yarn was higher than the fabr…

本研究將開發一新式織物電極，採用成本較低之碳黑纖維與銅錫合金PET纖維與銀纖維織物電極相互包繞開發新式織物電極，其電極品質與銀纖維織物電極相同，且在實際穿著高運動量的情況下訊號穩定度仍與傳統電極貼片相同。新開發之織物電極使用碳黑纖維單包繞銀纖維之方式織造(300TPM/Z撚)，該織物電極通過耐酸鹼測試，碳黑纖維單包繞銀纖維織物電極鹼洗陰乾後電阻5.8±0.1?/10cm，酸洗陰乾後碳黑纖維單包繞銀纖維織物電極導電度9.9±2.1?/10cm；碳黑纖維單包繞銀纖維織物電極通過起毛毬測試四級。於訊號穩定度測試，採用標準心電圖計(MSI E3-8010, Taiwan)與Polar心率傳感器(Polar S625X, Finland)連結生理感測衣穿著在受試者身上進行跑步訊號穩定度比對測試，並於跑步測試前後進行實際穿著體態評估，碳黑單包繞銀纖維織物電極均有貼附於受試者之皮膚上；於實際三十分鐘跑步測試結果顯示心跳相似度在精度5%情況下…

This research will develop a new fabric electrodes, which use the lower cost of carbon black fibers and PET fibers and copper-tin alloy electrodes are wrapped silver fabric to develop a new fabric electrode. The qualities of new fabric electrodes will the same with silver fabric electrodes. Apart from this, the signal accuracy of new fabric electrodes will the same with conventional electrode at high physical activity. The newly developed fabric electrodes which are weaved and wrapped by carbon black fiber and silver fibers (300TPM / Z twist). The new carbon black fabric electrodes with silve…

本研究合成一系列聚乙二醇衍生物Gemini界面活性劑與分散染料染色之關係，先利用UV-vis光譜儀進行合成產物與染料相互作用之研究，並以產物與染料結合粒徑、產物用於聚酯染色之染色性測試，了解此系列產物對於分散染料染聚酯之影響。由測試結果發現此系列合成產物的界面活性劑皆有助於染料於染液中之分散性。

In this study, the relationship between the synthesis of a series of polyethylene glycol derivatives Gemini surfactant with disperse dye, the first use of UV-vis spectroscopy to study the interaction of the dye synthesized product, and the product combined with the dye particle size, the product is used dyeing of polyester dyeing test, understand the impact of this series of products for the disperse dye polyester. Found by test results for this series of synthesis products are surfactant helps disperse the dye in a dyebath nature.