華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.181

第 18 卷第 1 期(2011)

Vol. 18 No. 1 (2011)

出版日期 2015-06-06

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 1
    漢字意象應用於服裝作品之探討 The Application of Chinese Characters Image on Fashion Design
    林妙姿、陳禹均
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    在設計的領域裡,文字早已成為視覺意念傳遞的重要媒介因素之一,將文字藝術加以展現的字體設計,不僅代表著人類文明藝術的發展,也建構人類發展生活美學的提升,現今的文字早已由思想、情感的傳遞作用提升至表現美學藝術的境界。本文以服飾設計師之服裝設計作品系列為例,從漢字字形結構等方面探討服裝設計元素,進一步了解漢字和服裝結合的趣味與創新。研究結果歸納出設計師系列作品透過漢字意象應用於服裝的顏色、輪廓線、設計技法、書法體表達等特徵與細部設計。

    In the design field, the writing already becomes one of visual thought transmission important medium factors, unfolds the typeface design the writing art, is not only represents the development of the arts of human civilization, but also construction of human development, upgrading of the art of living, today's text have been fixed by thought, emotion raised to the performance of the transmission role of the aesthetic realm of art discusses from the Chinese philology, the typeface culture connotation, the glyph structure, the calligraphy system of various design performance, transformation of…

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    pp. 1 全文 PDF
  2. 7
    日本京都藝伎服飾特色應用於現代女性服裝上 Kyoto, Japan Geisha Costumes Applied to Modern Women Dress Clothing
    蔡羿?、蕭美玲
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    本研究主要探討日本藝伎服飾文化,找出服飾的藝術元素及代表性的特徵,並思考若將此特徵應用於現代女性服裝上的改變。將設計靈感與創意巧思結合,和現代並容。服裝是運用藝伎服飾的直線體線條應用在現代要求合身的身材上,並以立體剪裁的方式,製作出符合設計靈感的款式,運用材料性質即是利用雪芳紗及燒花布做為反差,表現出現代與傳統的差別,顯現出服裝設計的多樣化與日本文化結合後的美感。

    This research the culture of the Japanese geisha costumes, to find the dress of the artistic elements and representative features, and think if this feature applies to modern women clothing changes. Combination of inspiration and creative ideas,and use in modern. Geisha costume dress is a straight line using body lines used in the modern demands on the body fit and cut to three-dimensional manner, to produce consistent style inspiration, the nature of the use of material that is used as a contrast Chiffon and burnt-out fabric, demonstrate the difference between modern and traditional, reveali…

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    pp. 7 全文 PDF
  3. 19
    不織布含浸不同去乙醯化度之幾丁聚醣對染料吸附性之影響 The Adsorption Properties of Various Deacetylated Chitosan Impregnated Non-woven
    李育融、謝明孝、張志鵬
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    本研究旨在探討不同去乙醯化度之幾丁聚醣含浸不織布製成薄膜後。對於直接性染料之吸附特性,並使用分散性染料作為對照組,研究分析幾丁聚醣胺基團對於直接性染料磺酸根離子的吸附動力學。將不同去乙醯化度作用之幾丁聚醣含浸於不織布中,製成幾丁聚醣吸附材後,分別對分散性染料(C.I. Red82)與直接性染料(C.I. Yellow106)進行吸附。結果顯示,去乙醯化度越高的幾丁聚醣,對於直接性染料的吸附效果也越高,在吸附72小時之後逐漸達到吸附飽和,而缺乏磺酸根離子之分散性染料吸附效果則不佳。使用戊二醛將幾丁聚醣胺基交鏈,進行官能基封鎖後,其吸附性質大幅下降,證明了幾丁聚醣對於直接性染料(C.I. Yellow106)之吸附,屬於單分子層化學吸附。其吸附模型屬於Langmuir吸附等溫線,經吸附後的液體,其吸光值幾乎與純水相同,具有優異的淨化效果。

    This study aimed to explore the directly dyes adsorption of kinetics which are different deacetylation Chitosan impregnated non-woven films. Using the different deacetylation Chitosan impregnated non-woven films, and produced the sample did adsorption for the disperse dyes(C.I. Red 82)and direct dyes (CI Yellow 106) respectively. The result shows, high deacetylation Chitosan has better adsorption effect for direct dyes (CI Yellow 106) than control. The sample arrived the adsorption saturation after the 72 hours, the adsorption effect is poor for disperse dyes(C.I. Red 82).The sample did cross…

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    pp. 19 摘要
  4. 26
    以不同涼感尼龍纖維比例探討涼爽衣物對人體舒適度影響之研究 Inquire into a Cool Clothes by Different Cool Feeling Nylon Fiber Comparison to the Research of Human Body Comfort Index Influence
    E. C. Zhang, K. C. Lee, F. U. Shu, U. D. Yeh, H. Z. Yu
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    本研究以具時尚設計感的涼爽織物對人體舒適度之測試,並以織物之乾燥速率、升溫速率及交感、副交感神經活性值等變因來進行舒適度之檢測,探討不同版型間對舒適度所帶來的差異。

    In this study, with a cool sense of fashion design fabric testing on human comfort, and to the fabric of the drying rate, heating rate and sympathetic, parasympathetic activity value due to confounding variables such as comfort of testing carried out to explore the different version types between pairs of comfort bring on the degree of difference.

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    pp. 26 摘要
  5. 34
    以反射原理及表面粗糙度分析複合材料表面螺紋印現象之研究 The Study of the Composite Materials Surface Print Through Phenomenon by Using Reflection Theory and Surface Roughness
    王靜萱、李貴琪、蔡民隆
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    本實驗是利用反射原理定量分析複合材料表面反射燈管影像之粗糙度,並選擇使複合材料表面清晰度提升之光源種類與複合材料擺放角度。當在白色光源下,複合材料擺放角度呈45°時,具有最好之影像清晰度;而定量分析複合材料表面粗糙度,必須在光源、擺放距離與影像放大倍數的相同條件下,才可藉由兩平行線之距離來分析表面粗糙程度的差異,所得之反射原理量化表面粗糙度可藉由相對應的表面粗糙度測量儀之數據,做迴歸分析,得一相關迴歸方程式為y=1.19x+0.5148,x值為表面粗糙度測量儀之數據,y值為反射原理量化表面粗糙度之數值,相關係數為r=0.996。

    In this study, we analyze the surface roughness of the different composite materials with the qualitative analysis by selecting the suitable light sources and placing positions after judged with the reflection theory from the clarity of the reflected lighting images on the FRP composite materials of different angles. There’s the best clear image while the FRP composite material is placed with angle of 45° under the white light source. The quantitative analysis of surface roughness of different composite materials can be done by analyzing the distance between the two paralleled lines in the re…

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    pp. 34 摘要
  6. 41
    幾丁聚醣複合材料應用於哺乳動物細胞培養固定化探討 Immobilization of Chitosan Composite Material Used in Mammalian Cells Culture
    謝明孝、吳韻玲、徐郁文、林宏軒、張志鵬、劉裕國
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    本研究目的係探討幾丁聚醣/海藻酸鈉複合材料?合明膠、及?合氧化鋁與明膠後,對於動物細胞固定化之培養活性的影響;以作為日後發展桿狀病毒/哺乳動物細胞生物反應器固定化載體用途之評估。在此研究中探討了複合材料在不同酸鹼值下的吸水率、體外酵素降解率、材料混合後之官能基變化以及動物細胞固定化後的活性值。結果顯示,複合材料?合明膠後吸水率較未?合明膠平均上升150%;體外酵素降解率平均上升8.33%;細胞活性值平均上升了0.17。選擇活性較高的明膠組來?合氧化鋁,其結果發現細胞活性值較未?合氧化鋁者平均上升了0.21;將複合材料製作為疊層化的聚電解質之後發現,製作成三層複合材料的細胞活性值較未分層平均上升了0.15,製作為六層複合材料的細胞活性值較未分層平均上升了0.41。將CHO-K1細胞固定化在?合氧化鋁的幾丁聚醣/海藻酸鈉/明膠複合薄膜,其平均生長活性為1.979、Vero細胞平均生長活性為1.828、U20S細胞平均生長活性則為1.64。

    In this study, we discussed immobilized activity of the material which admix Chitosan , Sodium Alginate, Gelatin and Aluminum oxide. for the animal cells culture. We compared the absorbent rate of the material at the different pH values, the rate of enzymatic degradation in vitro, the functional group changed after the three kinds of materials admixed and the average value which activity of immobilized for the animal cells culture. The result shows, the absorbent rate of the material which admix Gelatin was 1.5 fold higher than the control. The enzymatic degradation rate of the material which…

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    pp. 41 摘要
  7. 48
    超臨界流體製作聚乙烯塑膠發泡粒之研究 The Study of Forming Polyethylene Foam by Using Supercritical Fluid
    李貴琪、佘岱螢、游輝仁、邱永和
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    本研究以兩種不同聚乙烯塑膠粒,經超臨界微細發泡所製成之發泡粒進行比較,首先利用不同溫度及壓力條件下,測試其體積膨脹率,發現在90℃,壓力20MPa時,具有最佳之膨脹率。再利用不同洩壓速率條件,分別測試其發泡孔、外觀色澤等,發現當洩壓速率越快時,孔徑則越均勻,色澤之變化也越明顯,而膨脹率亦隨之增加。

    In this study, we use the two different polyethylene pellets by the microcellular, to compare foam aperture and appearance color in different temperature and pressure. The results show LDPE’s molecule structure is fragile than HDPE’s, LDPE foam aperture is more large and irregular, and it is appearance of the color is uneven.

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    pp. 48 摘要
  8. 63
    海藻膠包覆油性咖啡萃取物微膠囊之製備與其緩釋性探討 Preparation and Sustained Release Properties of Sodium Alginate Containing Coffee
    陳皇銘、謝明孝、林淑華、張志鵬
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    本研究應用了蒸餾法及溶劑法萃取Hawaiian Kona 咖啡豆,並藉由氣味感知器分析不同的萃取方式而產生的香味變化。本實驗選用香質較接近原咖啡豆的溶劑萃取物為芯材,海藻膠為殼材,利用二段式凝膠法製成微膠囊並進行緩釋性的評估。實驗結果顯示,經包覆後之萃取物在氣味感知器的分析下,香質提高6度,香味強度降低880,證實萃取物經包覆後可達到良好的緩釋效果。而包覆前後之香味強度皆隨著溫度提高而呈線性的比例增加。且本研究之萃取物經包覆後,於30°C下經過360分鐘,香味強度仍然有840 ,大於人體可輕易感知範圍內。

    This study is about to extract Hawaiian Kona coffee bean by method distillation and solution, and analyze the fragrances from different method by Electronic Nose. In the experiment we select the coffee abstract, in which the fragrance closes to the original bean, as our core and sodium alginate as outer cover. We applied the Coacervation to produce capsules and analyzed its releasing. The results indicate that the fragrance of the contained abstract, Electronic Nose applied, increased 6 degree and the strength decreased 880. These results point out that the containing can be affectively relea…

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    pp. 63 摘要
  9. 55
    不同預處理對兩段浸漬輸送帶之研究 The Study of Two-step Dip System of Conveyer by different Pre-treatment
    陳仕洋、邢文灝、王以魁、黃元駿、陳坤農
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    本研究係將高強力聚酯/尼龍交織物以遠紅外線照射處理、微波處理與減量加工處理,及浸漬溶液濃度為2%、4%、6%及8%之異氰酸鹽水溶液等方法對布表面進行物理及化學處理。經遠紅外線照射處理之布與布層間的剝離強力最高達18.9kgf,較原布提升131.62%,布與膠層間之剝離強力最高達22.75kgf,較原布提升164.53%。經微波照射處理之布與布層間的剝離強力最高達18.51kgf,較原布提升126.84%,而布與膠層間剝離強力最高達22.24kgf,較原布提升158.60%。經減量加工處理之布與布層間剝離強力最高達12.04kgf,較原布提升47.55%,而布與膠層間剝離強力最高達14.86kgf,較原布提升72.83%。

    In this study, the high tenacity polyester woven fabrics surface of the fabric treaded by physical and chemical processing, treaded with far-infrared radiation, microwave radiation and reduction processing, and dipped 2%, 4%,6% and 8% isocyanate solution. The fabric which treated by far-infrared radiation the adhesion strength between fabric and fabric layer up to 18.9kgf, up rise 131.62%, adhesion strength between fabric and rubber up to 22.75kgf, up rise 164.53%. The fabric which treated by microwave radiation the adhesion strength between fabric and fabric layer up to 18.51kgf, up rise 126…

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    pp. 55 全文 PDF
  10. 70
    藍色系多重色彩搭配與色彩諧調性關係之研究 A Study with Multi-Color Combinations and Color Harmony in Blue Series
    陳勇辰、郭文貴
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    本研究係以色彩心理物理學的方法來針對藍色系多重色彩搭配之服飾來探討每位觀測者對色彩諧調性的感覺,再以色彩三屬性來歸納出與各樣本間的諧調性之關係。從實驗結果得知,在20以上的低明度到中明度,諧調性會有偏高的趨勢;而隨著彩度愈高,諧調性也會有愈高的趨勢;在色相方面,偏紅的藍色,諧調性有偏高的趨勢,而偏綠的藍色,諧調性則有偏低的趨勢。

    In this study focused on psychophysical method of color for blue series with a multi-color combinations of clothing to each of the observer’s feeling of the color harmony. And sum up the color’s of three properties and harmonization between the various samples of the relationship. From the experimental results, the trend of harmonization will become higher when lightness is more than 20 to medium lightness. The trend of the higher chroma will have higher harmonization. Terms of the hue, harmonization of a reddish blue trend of high. Harmonization of greenish blue, the trend is a low.

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    pp. 70 全文 PDF
  11. 85
    含銀尼龍6靜電紡絲製備奈米纖維網之研究 The Study of Ag-contained PA 6 Nanofiber Webs by Electrospinning
    莊偉聖、邢文灝、潘毅鈞
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    本研究以尼龍6之15,17,19,21及23wt%溶液,並添加入硝酸銀1wt%製作具抑菌性的靜電紡絲複合濾網。研究發現,隨著尼龍溶液的黏度增加,所製得纖維的細度越粗。在固定尼龍濃度下,電壓低時所紡成的纖維細度較粗,且纖維網的結構較不規則。添加1wt%的硝酸銀於尼龍中發現,尼龍溶液的黏度以及導電度皆會下降,且會使纖維網的結構變得更不均勻。添加了硝酸銀的尼龍溶液,在較低的電壓及低固含量尼龍溶液條件下,單根纖維的表面皆有斷纖及奈米液滴產生。

    By using electrospinning method, polyamide 6 (PA 6) nanofibers containing 1 wt% of AgNO3 were spun from different concentrations solutions (15,17,19,21,23wt%) for use as composite filter media. The silver ions in PA 6 nanofibers were reduced by ascorbic acid solution to silver particles offering antibacterial properties to the final filter after electrospinning. The results show, fibers with mean diameters less than 160 nm were prepared for use as filter media by electrospinning. The diameter of electrospun fiber was proportioned to the viscosity of PA 6 solution but was inversed to the appli…

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    pp. 85 全文 PDF
  12. 75
    台灣消費者對MIT紡織品的印象、產品評價及購買意願之影響 The Evaluation and Purchase Intention of Taiwan Customer to Taiwan Textile Product
    劉莉嘉、楊維漢、賴秋君
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    隨著兩岸經濟合作架構協議 (Economic Cooperation Framework Agreement, ECFA)的通過,政府開始推動臺灣製產品MIT(Made In Taiwan)微笑標章及品質認驗證制度。推動MIT微笑標章的政策目標,明顯是想藉由提升消費者對「臺灣製產品」健康、安全、值得信賴及物超所值的良好印象,進而創造優良的臺灣品牌價值,強化產業的整體競爭力。本研究的主要目的是探討消費者對臺灣產紡織品的印象、產品評價和購買意願的關係為何,同時探討消費者對產品的涉入程度、以及其消費所在地區,會對其購買意願產生何種影響。本研究證實消費者對產品的印象以及產品評價對購買意願有著明顯正向影響。期望本研究的結論,能對政府在釐定和執行紡織產業政策時有所貢獻,並能作為臺灣紡織企業在釐定研究發展策略、以及執行拓銷活動時的實務依據。

    Along with both banks economic cooperation construction agreement (Economic Cooperation Framework Agreement, ECFA) passing, the government starts to impel Taiwan system product MIT (Made In Taiwan) to smile the marker and the quality recognizes the confirmation system. Impels the MIT smile marker the policy goal, is obviously wants because to promote the consumer to be right “Taiwan system product” the health, the security, to be worth trusting and the above the price in value good impression, then creation fine Taiwan brand value, strengthened industry overall competitive power. Is this rese…

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    pp. 75 摘要