第 24 卷第 5 期（2017）

現今紡織機械普遍欠缺智慧化技術，烘乾機智慧調控節能系統不但可直接實裝於新機台上，其能源管理整合介面、多元烘乾製程最適化與高效率優化等技術亦可應用於染整廠商現存機台，舊機台改裝活化後也能同享節能技術帶來的經濟效益。烘乾機智慧調控節能系統技術主要解決染整產業最耗能的熱烘問題，開發出烘乾製程能源管理整合介面系統技術、多元烘乾製程最適化技術、高效率優化系統技術，建構具有高效率烘乾機控制及低耗能製程最適化技術的烘乾機智慧調控節能系統，能有效提升產業競爭優勢，並推廣至國內外染整設備製造商及染整業者。

Today's textile machinery generally lack the intelligent of technology, dryer intelligent control energy-saving system can be directly installed in the new machine, energy management integration interface, multiple drying process optimization and high efficiency optimization technology can also be applied to dyeing and finishing companies existing machine, after the old machine upgrade can also get the economic benefits of energy-saving technologies. Energy-saving system of drying intelligent control can solve the textile industry's most heat-consuming problem, development of drying process e…

隨著人口結構的轉變，高齡化趨勢漸漸成為全球注目的話題與研究之一，因為國人平均壽命的延長、老年人口比例逐漸上升，龐大的銀髮商機也跟著浮出水面，估計到2025年高齡化社會產業市場規模將達到40兆美元。而不管是大人還是小孩都有對服飾的需求，現在的服飾也常常根據穿衣者不同的年齡與身體狀況需求，而有所不同的調整與設計，由此可知銀髮族服裝設計的開發與研究變成一個社會與服裝市場的重要課題。本研究以銀髮族服飾設計需求作為研究背景，經由了解銀髮族女性的生理、心理發展後，以服裝人體工學角度去探討銀髮族女性在衣方面的問題與需求，並透過文獻探討、問卷調查與整合分析模式，歸納銀髮族對服裝設計需求要素，以提供相關研究者及產業有不同之服飾設計思考。

With the Demographic transition, aging trend has gradually become one of the issues and research which has caught attention from all over the world. According to the extension of people's life expectancy and the rising ratio of elderly population, huge business of senior citizens has become an evident trend. Elderly community industry market might reach to $40 trillion by the year of 2025.Both adults and children have demand for clothes, so designers might do different adjustment and design according to costumer's age and physical condition. Therefore, it is an important task for society and …

以乾燥的石榴皮作?原料，用水煮法提取天然石榴皮色素對羊毛纖維進行超聲波染色，研究色素濃度、染色時間、染浴pH值、染色溫度對石榴皮染色羊毛的染色深度和?色特徵值的影響。實驗結果表明：石榴皮色素適合於羊毛纖維的染色，超聲波對石榴色素上染羊毛纖維具有明顯的增深作用，對皂洗牢度和摩擦牢度有一定的提高。

Compared with the traditional dyeing method, ultrasound can improve the dyeing efficiency, reduce the sewage discharge, and the amount of dye and dyeing auxiliary, and significantly improve the dyeing depth and color fastness. In this study, dried pomegranate peel was selected as dye material and was extracted using boiling method. The extraction process was optimized. Then wool fiber was dyed with pomegranate extraction. The effects of ultrasonic, pigment concentration, dyeing time, pH value of dyeing bath and dyeing temperature on dyeing properties were studied. The results showed that ultr…

本研究在文獻回顧與探討首先了解插畫之定義；其次分析插畫發展；進而介紹現代插畫家作品；最後以圖示方式說明插畫創作者結合時尚所發展出之商品。在創作部分，研究者以「Life」為主題，將插畫創作目標設計出「大鼻子女孩卡蜜拉」、「夜。生活」與「天堂」三種不同主題系列作品，第一主題「大鼻子女孩卡蜜拉」，以布包與小行李箱為設計，材質以帆布與皮革為主；第二主題「夜。生活」應用於小型方包、涼鞋與休閒鞋，材質以帆布與皮革為主；第三主題「天堂」，作品為圓包、休閒鞋、包鞋，材質則以皮革為主，圖案部分則以轉印、提花方式呈現於袋包鞋靴。後續將與「仁美商標工業股份有限公司」進行產學合作，將設計稿發展為產品。

This study investigates the definition of the illustration; then analyzes the development of illustration; thus introduce works of contemporary illustrators; finally, combined with fashion icons illustrate illustration creators develop merchandise. The researchers conducted with "LIFE" as the theme of the bags and shoes design, this study will target illustration creative design "big nose girl Camilla," "night life." and "paradise." They are different series of works relating to the first theme "big nose girl Camilla "series, cloth bags and a small suitcase for the design, materials and leath…

此研究主要是以問卷來探討運動成衣的使用者對於運動成衣的購買決策因素。再由實驗數據分析後我們可找出購買運動成衣決策因素的重要性排序，紡織工程學系與外系學生的決策因素重要性排序相異性，了解消費者對於產品的看法。得知消費者的收入及置裝費用成正比，網絡社交平台成為消費者的運動成衣主要資訊來源，而價格、款式設計用色及舒適為較重要決策因素。並針對以上結果，建議廠商發展網絡行銷，多舉辦促銷活動，提供個人化客製服務。

This study is based on questionnaires to explore user functional sports wearing decision factors. After analyzing the experimental data we can find out the important sequence of purchasing sports wearing decision factors, its difference between the students of textile engineering and non- textile engineering and understand the view of consumer purchasing. As results, it was found a direct ratio of consumer’s incoming and clothing spending. Besides, the social network has become the consumer’s main sources of sports wearing. Ultimately, the important purchasing sports wearing decision factors …

回收聚酯纖維可應用於衣著，聚對苯二甲酸乙酯(PET)是屬於疏水性纖維，在吸濕性與快乾性有缺失，因此本研究透過聚乙二醇雙胺來改質回收聚酯，並研究其熱性質、表面電阻、摩擦帶電壓、吸水速度以及水份蒸發率等特殊性能；結果隨著聚乙二醇雙胺含量的增加，其熔點降低而表面電阻亦可降低到抗靜電級的程度；摩擦帶電壓亦明顯從200~800伏特降到小於50伏特；吸水速度可增加1倍以上；而水份蒸發率高達65.9%，顯示聚乙二醇雙胺是十分有效的親水改質單體，進而改善提升紡織品穿著舒適性。

Recycled Polyester Fiber can be applied to clothing. Polyethylene terephthalate fibrics have some problems in moisture absorption and quick drying because PET is hydrophobic materials. So we studied polyoxyethylene diamine modified PET and its thermal properties, surface resistance, rubbing voltage, water absorption rate and water evaporation rate. The more content of polyoxyetylene diamine in modified PET, the lower melting point and surface resistance, even can get a antistatic materials; rubbing voltage decrease from 200-800 V to below 50 V; water absorption rate increase beyond doubled an…

剪紙藝術為承載過去時空的古老藝術，圖紋擁有深廣的文化意涵與寄託精神，洋溢吉祥喜慶之意象，達到所謂圖必有意，意必吉祥之境界。隨著時代轉變漸被遺忘，如何將獨具文化價值的傳統工藝，賦予新生命力，重新貼近人們的生活；本研究以剪紙藝術為創作核心，並擷取九種台灣高山花卉為元素，應用轉化於服飾之中，傳遞剪紙藝術的內在意涵與細膩視覺美感，彰顯內在層面價值的提升，利用台灣高山花卉的獨特姿態與剪紙的鏤空之美相互融合，激發新視覺意象。藉由文獻探討與個案分析，探究剪紙歷史脈絡、文化意涵與風格發展，並解析現代剪紙藝術家與剪紙服飾應用現況，作為創作參考。透過現代手法與新素材詮釋剪紙藝術，與不同領域的跨界結合，保留傳統文化核心價值，延伸文化創意設計新思維。

Paper carving art is an ancient art which represent old time life style, all patterns owns enrich culture and spiritual connotation. Most of them brimming meant luck and celebration. It takes on to the realm of every picture means something and something means good luck, along with customs change with time, paper carving art was faded out, it is time to give new vitality to this traditional handy craft, we should get into through of how to apply the art to fit the need of modern life. This study is take paper carving art as a core creative value as well as to extract the elements from Taiwan…

超臨界CO2染色屬於較環保的染色方式，此研究使用5支不同紅色分散性染料以以不同溫度、時間及壓力在超臨界CO2對聚酯進行染色布中，並比較其中的均染性與上色率。從其染色結果得知，染料Red 4較其他4支染料在超臨界染色中，具有較佳的相對上色率。染料Red 4在固定溫度120℃及時間3600秒條件下染色時，壓力需在3000psi以上才可獲得均染效果。在固定溫度120℃及壓力3625psi條件下染色時，時間在1200秒即可達到均染效果。在固定時間3600秒及壓力3625psi條件下染色時，溫度於80℃即可達到均染效果。從染色堅牢度的結果得知，除染料Red 4在耐水洗牢度對尼龍纖維染污3-4級偏低外，其餘各項染色堅牢度均可達到4級以上。

Supercritical CO2 dyeing is a more environmentally friendly dyeing method. In this study, 5 different red disperse dyes were used for polyester in supercritical CO2 dyeing at different pressures, temperatures and time and then compare its levelness and color yield. From the results of that dyeing shows the dye Red 4 having a better relatively dye uptake than the other 4 dyes in supercritical CO2 dyeing. Under the dyeing conditions at a fixed temperature of 120℃ and time 3600 seconds of dye Red 4, the pressure to be more than 3000psi in order to obtain the leveling effect. Under the dyeing con…

本文探討PTFE載體紡絲纖維在不同燒結溫度下其載體燒除率之研究。以平均分子量為3×106~5×106與5×107之PTFE懸浮液與海藻酸鈉為紡絲液載體，利用載體紡絲法紡製PTFE/海藻酸初生纖維，以250、300、320、340、360、380、400及420°C為燒結溫度進行初生纖維載體燒結試驗。以FTIR分析燒結後纖維結果可發現，隨燒結溫度上升，海藻酸鈉特徵峰隨之下降，PTFE特徵峰值則維持一定，另由TGA熱重分析結果可知當燒結溫度大於340 ℃，其熱重損失量小於15%，可驗證初生纖維經340 ℃以上溫度燒結過後，85%以上之海藻酸鈉可被燒除，藉此驗證經過燒結後可燒除PTFE初生纖維內的海藻酸鈉載體。

In this research, investigating PTFE matrix-spun fiber with different temperature which the matrix removed rate, the newborn fiber were combined PTFE dispersion with alginate solution, the mean of PTFE molecular weight is 3×106~5×106 and 5×107. In research, the burning temperature is from 250°C to 420°C, analysis burning product by FTIR, when the burning temperature raised, the peak of alginate was decreased and the peak of PTFE was consistent, analysis burning product by TGA, the thermogravimetric loss less than 15% when the burning temperature over 340 degree. It was proved that the alginat…

本研究針對衝動性購買的消費者與具環保訴求的消費者對於快速時尚服飾的購買意願；本研究的目的在於探討當消費者具有衝動性購買的特徵，是否會因為他具有環保的概念或是擁有綠色消費者行為而影響對於快速時尚服飾的購買意願；本研究以一般民眾為對象，採用網路問卷調查法以及問卷發放進行資料蒐集，共回收632份問卷，研究分析結果發現，快速時尚之流行與品牌知名度是購買快速時尚服飾最大的主因，但對於認同商品環保之重要性的消費者，購買環境友善商品的意願程度較快速時尚服飾高。

This research concentrates on the impulsive consumers, who purchase” fast fashion” products but also notice about the issue of environmental protection. In order to identify the fact or so-called “green consumption” affects consumers purchase intension or not. We surveyed to the general public and collected all the replied data. A total of 544 questionnaires were collected. The result is showed as below: The price is the main factor which influences the most customers’ decision, but the customers who agree with the importance of environmental protection, have higher willing to buy environment…