第 23 卷第 7 期(2016)
Vol. 23 No. 7 (2016)
出版日期 2016-11-04
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411
織物吸收飽和水後其放濕吸熱的研究 Study of Heating Generating by Moisture Absorption on Textile with Saturated Water鄭嘉樑、余?楠、陳怡頻、?文灝
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依瞬間涼爽性織物國家標準CNS15687,應用熱板瞬間穿透織物熱適量之Q-max值。本研究另增加織物間含水率之熱傳導函數,評估於實際應用於織物與人體接觸上,以CNS15659-1及15659-2標準測試乾爽過程之散熱溫差評估。研究結果比較涼爽織物和吸濕發熱織物Q-max值,發熱織物的Q-max值均高於一般涼爽織物的標準,如TCP的Q-max值為0.198;而100%遠紅外線嫘縈的吸濕發熱織物Q-max值為0.241,說明涼爽織物在Q-max值上較不易散熱,但TCP濕阻熱溫差為8.5℃,所維持的涼爽時間8分鐘,其乾燥速率較快;相反100%遠紅外線嫘縈的濕熱阻溫差為較小為7.2℃,在濕狀態下可維持涼爽時間有22分鐘,但較不乾爽,綜合織物涼爽標準測試宜包含Q-max、濕熱阻溫差、乾燥後熱阻溫差等三項。
Follow CNS15687 standard, using heating board to translate heat on the textile in order to reach the Q-max data. In this research, adding thermal conductivity and moisture regain of textiles. Also, considering about the practically use of textile that touching the human body. CNS15659-1 and CNS15659-2 standard to assess the heating generating by moisture absorption on textiles. The result of the research, the Q-max of the heating textiles are higher than the cooling Textile. For example, the Q-max of TCP is 0.198, but the Q-max of 100%far infrared rayon is 0.241. The TCP temperature is 8.5℃, …
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416
不同保暖性纖維織物於靜動態舒適性之比較 Comparison of Different Fabrics in Warm Comfort of the Static And Dynamic何書帆、李貴琪、潘同澤
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本實驗以不同保暖性纖維織物,於靜態、動態進行人體生理機能之測試,測量穿著不同保暖性纖維類型之紗製成的冬季服飾對人體的自律神經交感與副交感之變化,計算出穿著不同保暖性纖維織物製成的冬季服飾之舒適度,用以評斷不同保暖性纖維織物之優劣,以供往後製作保暖織物之參考。熱傳導實驗結果顯示聚丙烯織物的傳導值是3.86(w/m℃),是所有織物中最高的。而在放熱測試中聚丙烯纖維也是所有纖維中,殘留溫度最高的,所以在保暖保溫性聚丙烯織物是較優異的。在靜動態下的測試我們以心律變異做測試,而得知交感與副交感值,以公式下去做比較,聚丙烯織物在靜態下具有保暖的舒適的功能,但在動態下相互比較下,因為散熱不易,使的動態下無法造成有效的舒適感。
In this experiment, different warm fabrics, static and dynamic testing of human physiological function of the measured wear different thermal fiber type of yarn made of winter clothing to changes in the autonomic nervous system sympathetic and parasympathetic of the human body, calculated wearing different warm comfort fiber fabric of winter clothing to judge the merits of different warm fabric, the reference for future production of warm fabric. Experimental results show that the thermal conductivity of polypropylene fabric conductivity value is 3.86 (w / m ℃), it is the highest of all fabri…
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421
高雄市高職服裝科學生對縫紉技能課程學習行為相關之研究 A Research on the Learning Behavior of Students In Sewing Classes from the Department of Clothing in Vocational High Schools in Kaohsiung City陳珮漪、鄭如伶
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本文主要是針對高職服裝科學生修讀縫紉技能課程之現況,探討其縫紉技能課程學習行為之相關研究,並從中了解不同背景學生其學習差異之情形。研究對象以高雄市某高職服裝科學校學生為對象,並採立意抽樣方式進行問卷調查,其有效問卷為333份(93%)。爾後經由透過統計分析,其研究結果如下: 1.樣本資料經結果得知,高職生每週上縫紉課之時數之分佈情形,低年級每週上縫紉課以「6小時」為最多146 人占(43.8%);另外,高職生取得服裝相關證照之分佈情形,以取得服裝相關證照部分以「兩者尚未取得」為居多194人占(58.3%),其次是女裝丙級134人占(40.2%),其主要因低年級尚未取得取女裝證照。 2.?同年級的學生,縫紉技能課程學習行為在「學習困擾」構面,皆有達顯著之差?。 3.?同生涯規劃的學生,在縫紉技能學習行為方面,經由雪費事後比較在「學習動機」、「學習習慣」之構面,皆升學及就業居多,其主要因素學生認為學習縫紉技能課程對未來生涯規…
This research aims to explore students from the department of clothing taking sewing classes in vocational high schools. Learning behaviors of the students were investigated in order to know how students from various backgrounds differ in learning. The students in this research are from the department of clothing in vocational high schools in Kaohsiung city. Purposive sample was employed when distributing the surveys to the survey respondents. Among all the questionnaires, 333 of them (93 %) were valid. Statistics was employed to analyze the questionnaires and the results are as follows: 1. …
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429
撥水劑/防燃劑比例對Trevira防燃聚酯布之撥水性能及防燃效果的影響研究 Oil/Water repellant and Flame resistance of Trevira Fabrics treated with Various ratios of Repellant agents/Flame resistants林士然、王權泉
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本研究探討將防燃聚酯織物Trevira經防燃劑與撥水劑處理後效果之研究,本實驗使用不同比例之撥水劑/防燃劑對防燃聚酯不進行加工,以探討加工後之防燃聚酯織物其撥水性、防燃性、物性以及耐用性之變化。由實驗得知撥水劑、防燃劑濃度會直接影響加工物之處理效果,通撥水劑比例及濃度增加會使防燃性下降但撥水能力提高,防燃劑的比例及濃度增加則使織物保有較佳防燃性能,另撥水劑加工對織物的拉伸強力性能有增加的現象。
In this study discuss Trevira polyester fabric flame retardant by the anti. After treatment effect with the setting agent. In order to discuss the flameproof polyester fabric its water-repellent, anti-flammable, physical properties and durability of change after treatment, this study use different proportions of the dial agent, flame retardant on flameproof polyester fabric processing. Based on the study result, finding out dial agent flame retardant concentration will directly affect the effectiveness of the treatment, through dial agent its concentration and ratio increasing will life up wa…
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434
熱處理溫度對回收聚乙烯/聚酯吸音不織布之特性評估 Properties of Recycle Polyethylene/Polyester Nonwoven by Influences of Heat Treatment丁美至、樓靜文、謝建騰、潘毅鈞、施英輝、賴御玄、林佳弘
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隨著科技的進步,噪音污染愈來愈嚴重,而噪音問題一直以來就被人們所煩惱,為了解決噪音帶來的問題,消弱噪音是一種可行的方法。此外,由於石化產業蓬勃發展,塑膠製品愈來愈普遍,大量的塑膠垃圾隨之而生,這些塑膠垃圾會造成嚴重的污染,因此如何回收再利用變得更加重要。所以本研究利用捲曲PET 纖維與回收PE透過非織物製程製備出不織布,並探討熱處理溫度對吸音及機械性質的影響。由結果發現,熱處理溫度對吸音係數沒有明顯的影響。在機械性質方面,隨著熱處理溫度上升,拉伸強力會有所上升,而拉伸伸率則會下降。
As technology advances, more and more serious noise pollution, and noise has been trouble was that people, in order to solve the noise problems caused by weakening the noise is a feasible method. In addition, since the petrochemical industry is flourishing, plastic products increasingly common, a lot of plastic garbage along with the students, this plastic garbage can cause serious pollution, so how recycling has become more important. Therefore, this study crimped PET fibers and non-woven recycled PE through the process to prepare a non-woven, and to investigate the effect of heat treatment …
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438
Female Consumer Preference for Scented Textile ProductsShu Hwa Lin, Xing Sun
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Determine the role of ethnicity in product evaluation of scented textiles by three ethnic female groups. Compare differences in product evaluation using the sense of smell only, appearance and touch only or a combination of smell, appearance and touch. Experimental design involving monitored product evaluations of both 12 scented and unscented textiles by females from three ethnic backgrounds. Evaluations took place under 3 conditions: smell, look/touch, and smell/look/touch. Quota sampling was used to recruit 120 female consumer subjects from a metropolitan area in Hawaii with a quota of 4…
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449
pH值對聚醯胺纖維染色影響之研究 The Dyeing Effect of Polyamide on pH Value林淑惠、林芊葳、莊青霖、莊偉聖
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針對聚醯胺纖維染色大部份僅考量部份可控因子(昇溫曲線&染料類別),因此忽略了pH值對聚醯胺纖維染色的影響性。在染程中亦無法合理計算及有效控制,染色變數也只能採取染料類別或染料對溫度之依存性作為染色配方作業原則。因此本文試驗不同pH值進行分析探討特性及效果。試驗證明聚醯胺纖維紡織品染色,必須藉由穩定pH值,才可達到染色效果之目標,由試驗分析數值得知, 染液pH值4.5為本試驗最佳化的上色率。
For polyamide fiber dyeing majority consider only part of the controllable factors (heating curve & dye categories). Therefore, we ignore the pH value of the impact that polyamide fiber dyeing. Also not reasonable to calculate and effectively controlled in the dye process, the variables dyeing which only can take dye categories or the temperature dependence of dyes as a principle of dye formulations operation. In the study will discuss the characteristics and effects by experiment different pH value. The results show that to achieve the goal of polyamide fiber textile dyeing effect must be st…
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454
聚胺酯球狀粉體的製造方法 Manufacturing Method of Polyurethane Powder篠原勝治、謝建正
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聚胺酯粉體(以下簡稱PU powder)已悉知的製造方法,如粉碎法、強制分散法等。根據?利為了得到真圓的PU粉體,使用強制分散法分散法或著攪拌葉的大小為關鍵因素。這次我們研究了用自身乳化方法進行聚胺酯球狀粉體的製造方法。採用自身乳化法並於預聚物分子內導入COOH基。本次研究重要的結果是NCO基的反應性、預聚物的COOH%及結晶性、還有使用中和劑種類。以NCO基來?、用芳香族異氰酸鹽、例如MDI的時候容易得到PU Powder。用脂肪族或著脂環族的話比較難得到PU Powder。預聚物的COOH%及結晶性有以下的關係:預聚物的COOH%越高得到Powder量越少。預聚物的結晶性越高得到Powder量越多;使用中和劑有以下的傾向:用有機中和劑的話可以得到真圓PU Powder,用無機中和劑的話得到無定形PU Powder。
In order to develop a spherical powder of polyurethane, we have studied the producing method by self-emulsifying method. The point of research is reactivity of isocyanate groups, crystalline and carboxyl group of prepolymer and neutralizing agent. For NCO groups, the use of aromatic isocyanate, such as MDI, which is easy to get PU Powder. For carboxyl group, higher concentration obtained fewer Powder amount. The higher the crystallinity of the prepolymer to obtain more powder. Using organic neutralizer can get spherical PU Powder.:
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459
古希臘融合中國古代風格元素之創意時尚之研究 Creative Fashion Study of Ancient Greece Merged with Ancient Chinese Elements黃河清、郭文貴
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本研究以古希臘為基礎,融合中國古代元素,進行中西文化融合,進而製作出四套服裝。其中利用簡單的剪裁以及刺繡完成四套創意服裝作品,進而以此四套服裝創意作品為樣本進行心理物理學意象分析實驗,以評估原創意與作品意象之一致性。實驗結果顯示,設計師之原創意與觀測者之實際意象感覺達31%符合。
In this study based on fusing the ancient Greece elements with Chinese ancient elements implemented in clothing designs having a combination style of Chinese and Western cultures. And, totally four sets of unique clothes were created using a simple cut and embroidery works. Furthermore, these creative costumes were resembled into color image samples in a color psychophysical experiment with an imagery analysis to evaluate the consistency of meaning to the original design. The experimental results indicated that the original meaning and visual imagery works of goodness of fit of 31%.
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465
現代舞衣設計美學探討與設計應用 Discussion and Design Applications About the Aesthetics of Modern Costumes馬立宇、林金台
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現代舞是20世紀女性身體解放最具代表性的象徵之一,而其舞衣設計的美學更是震撼人心,本文從歐、美現代舞衣和台灣現代舞衣,分析其款式、色彩、材質與美學風格。其研究採用問卷調查,有效樣本160份,統計各項目人數與所占百分比,並且以表格、橫條圖、直條圖凸顯各項目之間的高低差距,藉此了解藝術領域的女性對現代舞衣款式、色彩、材質、整體的美感度以及舒適度之看法。研究結果發現,受歡迎的前三名現代舞衣,其一為桃紅色絲質連身裙,其二為黑色紗質上衣、暗紅色紗質裙子分開,其三為粉膚色棉質上衣、白色紗質寬褲分開,根據以上受歡迎的三套現代舞衣,設計出三套現代舞衣款式。
Modern dance is one of the symbols of the 20th century the most representative liberation of the female body. Costume design aesthetic is humbling. Analysis of their styles, colors, texture and aesthetic style from Europe, America and Taiwan modern costumes is a top priority. The research questionnaire, 160 valid samples, statistics of the number and percentage of projects, and a table, bar graph highlights the level of the gap between projects, to learn about the art of the female to modern costumes about styles, colors, texture, as well as the overall aesthetic of view of comfort. Study fou…
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