華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.236

第 23 卷第 6 期(2016)

Vol. 23 No. 6 (2016)

出版日期 2016-10-10

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 332
    多孔保濕木屑栽培介質仿蛇木板之研究 Waste Sawdust of Porous and Moisture Soilless Culture Explore to The Substitution of Letterwood
    李柔嫺、張志鵬、葉冠妏
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    本研究係利用聚乙烯醇水溶液混和木屑及水性壓克力分子,利用微波加熱發泡方式製作木屑栽培介質。探討不同濃度之聚乙烯醇水溶液添加不同含量木屑及水性壓克力,對無土栽培性質之影響。結果顯示,樣本PVA水溶液濃度為7wt%時,具有較佳成形性;而水性壓克力高分子為固定劑使樣本於水中不易瓦解,其中以樣本進行探討pH值、EC值、含水率、孔隙率,實驗結果,樣本的含水率達458%、孔隙率達40.12%、保水效果可達144小時。

    In this study, polyvinyl alcohol(PVA) solution mixed waste sawdust and waterborne acrylate, and produce waste sawdust soilless culture medium by microwave heating and microwave foaming. The Soilless cultivation affect of different concentrations of Polyvinyl alcohol solution mixed waste sawdust and waterborne acrylate were investigated. From the results showed which has better formation is the concentration of the 7wt% PVA solution of sample .Adding waterborne acrylate as fixative will caused samples difficult disintegrate in water. Using the sample to investigate pH value, EC value, moisture…

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    pp. 332-337 摘要
  2. 338
    以原位聚合法製備聚醯胺6/埃洛石奈米複合材料 A Study on the Fabrication of Polyamide 6/Halloysite Nanocomposite by In-situ Polymerization
    楊宜恩、秦治平、黃富亮、劉仁湧、張景棠、鄭國彬
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    本研究以原位聚合法之方式,將埃洛石奈米管與聚醯胺6製備成複合材料。研究包含兩個部分,第一部分先製備埃洛石懸浮液,第二部分將製備好之埃洛石懸浮液與己內醯胺均勻混合,經過開環反應、聚合反應、冷卻、破碎、純化、乾燥之程序製得聚醯胺6/埃洛石奈米複合材料。經研究分析後發現,固含量11wt% pH 9.27之埃洛石懸浮液,其表面電位達-43.79mv,埃洛石含量1wt%之聚醯胺6/埃洛石奈米複合材料其相對黏度為3.075,具有可紡性,其初始裂解溫度比未添加聚醯胺6提高了19.16℃,且對聚醯胺6之熔點不會有影響。

    Halloysite nanotubes(HNTs) were composed into polyamide 6(PA6) matrix by ultilizing an in-situ polymerization process. This study includes two parts. The first part was fabrication of HNTs slurry, the zeta potential of halloysite nanotubes in aqueous solution without dispersant were measured. In the second part, HNTs slurry and ε-caprolactam (CPL) were mixed with a constant fraction of, after open-ring reaction, polymerization, then cooled, the 1wt% halloysite PA 6 composite was obtained. The results show that, the 11wt% HNTs slurry with a pH value is 9.27 exhibits a zeta potential of -43.79m…

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    pp. 338-343 摘要
  3. 344
    網路服飾品牌形象之探討?以「OB嚴選」為例 A Study of Brand Image: Online Apparel Store- OBdesign
    李慧馨、陳錦滿
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    在現今網路商店林立的時代,了解消費者的購物行為並使其購買成為網路賣家的主要課題。在網購市場中,消費者未接觸實體產品,只能經由照片及資料來決定是否購買時,消費者會傾向選擇熟悉且信任的網路品牌。品牌不但是消費者決定購買的關鍵,亦是傳遞企業形象以及產品價值的媒介。本研究以網路服飾品牌「OB嚴選」為例,以其消費者為研究對象,藉由問卷之發放,研究「品牌」與「網站設計」在消費者心中的感知。而研究結果顯示,「OB嚴選」品牌在消費者心中具有良好的形象,意指商品種類多樣化、提供的服飾尺寸範圍較廣、商品風格實穿且好搭配及價格平易近人;在消費者瀏覽網頁時,該網站能提供許多協助;消費者對於品牌的服飾感到滿意且願意持續購買。可惜的是「OB嚴選」品牌的服飾風格卻沒有一個明顯的定位。建議可先設定服飾主題風格,再按照主題風格分類,提升消費者瀏覽商品的效率,也可以透過「副牌」的方式,將特定主題風格之服飾歸類在品牌中,強化消費者的品牌形象印象。

    While the numbers of online stores are prosperously growing, understanding consumer shopping behavior and persuading them to purchase have been important goals for online retailers. In the virtual marketing environment, consumers are not able to touch texture of products, and they make purchase decision depending on pictures and information posted by online retailers. Thus, consumers tend to choose products with brand names that they are familiar with and they trust. “Brand” is the key factor affecting purchase decision and is the mean delivering company image and product value. The purpose o…

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    pp. 344-353 摘要
  4. 354
    酸性染料對聚醯胺纖維6, 6.6與6.10染色研究 The Study of Dyeing for Nylon 6, 6.6 and 6.10 with Acid Dye
    林信宏、林淑惠、林峰標、邢文灝
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    本研究主題針對生質聚醯胺纖維6、6.6、6.10纖維染色性特性進行染程上色性分析試驗。染色實驗中採用了酸性染料與改質酸性染料進行染色實驗,採用相同的染色條件試驗不同聚醯胺纖維的色力度影響探討。一般染料與-NH2基團與-OH基團活性削弱的染料比較,上色率較聚醯胺6與聚醯胺6.6從四成下降到了三成,較聚醯胺6.10上色率從八成下降到了五成。染污分析結果,基於基團改變使得改質後的染料不會有移染的問題。

    This research is conducting dyeing process color analysis test mainly on biomass polyamide 6 6.6 and 6.10 dyeing properties. In dyeing experiment, it used acid dyes and modified experiment. with the same dyeing conditions to test different color intensity difference discussion. Comparing acid dyes and activity weakened -NH2group with -OH group dyes, polyamide 6 and 6.6 color rate are 40%, polyamide 6.10 is 80% which are using acid dyes. In the other hand, using activity weakened -NH2 with -OH group dyes, polyamide 6 and 6.6 are 30% 6.10 is 50%. In stained result, Modified dyes would not have …

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    pp. 354-363 摘要
  5. 364
    雙分子型PLA界面活性劑之親水化改質及性質研究 Hydrophilic modification and Properties research on Gemini PLA Surfactant
    吳迪偉、陳詩猷、陳以婷、賴秋君
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    本研究是以不同分子量之聚乙二醇(polyethylene glycol, PEG)及聚乳酸(PLA)為原料製備一系列環保型雙分子界面活性劑,合成一系列之產物皆以紅外線光譜分析(FT-IR)確認其結構,再針對產物之物理及化學性質加以探討,其中測試性質包含:濕潤性、起泡性、耐酸性及耐鹼性等,結果顯示一系列產物皆具有良好的界面性質。

    In this study, we synthesis a series of Eco-friendly Hydrophilic modification Gemini surfactants by the reaction of Polylactic Acid and the Polyethylene glycol of different molecular weights. The structure of these surfactants were confirmed by FT-IR. And discussion that physical and chemical properties, including wettability, foaming, acid and alkali resistance, The result displays that a series of result all has the good surface properties.

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    pp. 364-369 摘要
  6. 370
    職務性質、成衣業年資與工作場所對成衣打版人員專業職能之影響 Impacts of Job Nature, Garment Industry Seniority and Workplace on the Professional Competency of Garment Patternmaker
    鄭如伶、廖元民、蕭夙珍
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    近年來,台灣成衣製造業在面對全球化競爭之下,除了從OEM、ODM到OBM的產業轉型之外,在人才資源的職能管理,亦是重要的一環。因此,本研究主要是導入職能概念探討國內成衣打版人員的「職務性質」、「成衣業年資」與「工作場所」對其專業職能之影響。本研究採用問卷調查,並邀請成衣外衣製造業成衣打版人員填寫問卷,回收有效問卷共149份(85%)。此外,以統計軟體進行雙因子變異分析,藉以瞭解自變項相互間,與其對成衣打版人員專業職能的差異情形。經由研究結果得知:1.「職務性質」與「工作場所」對成衣打版人員專業職能之影響,除「專業技能」之外,在「專業知識」、「專業能力」、「態度特質」相互之間皆達顯著水準。2.「成衣業年資」與「工作場所」對成衣打版人員專業職能在「專業知識」、「專業技能」、「專業能力」達顯著水準,在「態度特質」未達顯著水準。期盼能提供學校與職業訓練機構在進行課程規劃與調整時,藉此使培訓對象之職能符合業者之需求,同時作為就業者選擇就…

    Faced with global competition in recent years, besides industrial transformations from OEM, ODM to OBM, job competency management of human resource is an important part in Taiwan’s garment manufacturing industry. Therefore, the purpose of this study is to implement competency concept to investigate the impacts of “job nature,” “garment industry seniority” and “workplace” on professional competency of domestic garment patternmakers. A questionnaires survey was adopted by this sturdy by inviting the pattern makers of outerwear manufacturing industry to fill in the questionnaires. A total of 149…

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    pp. 370-377 摘要
  7. 378
    竹纖維/竹屑複合板材之機械性質對吸音效果的影響 The study of Mechanical Properties and Sound-Absorbing Effect on Composite Plato
    黃宜璿、李貴琪、潘同澤
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    本實驗以桂竹天然纖維:竹纖、竹屑混和不同比例製成吸音用發泡板材,去對其板材做機械性及吸音方面的測試,比較不同比例的差異,希望加以改善,相對於現在市面上的吸音材料,製作出質輕、物性優良、吸音效果優良、使用壽命長的吸音用板材。在含水率的比較中,可發現最高為D板材含水率9.28%,皆可控制在13%以下,而在抗衝擊強度比較後,發現純竹纖纖維板(A)的抗衝擊強力最高,由於竹纖維在板材中屬於複合材料的補強材部分,因此竹屑含量變多,板材結構分散外力的效果會越差,而使衝擊強力顯著下降,在吸音效果測試中,D板材的吸音效果最好,可達到0.89,因純竹纖纖維板內部的纖維與纖維間孔隙較大,但加入竹屑混合,可填補竹纖維間的空隙,使孔隙變小、孔數量變多。

    The experiment wallflower natural fibers: bamboo fiber, bamboo shavings mixed with different proportions made of sound-absorbing foam sheet, plate to do their testing mechanical and acoustic aspects, compare different proportions differences, hoping to be improved, relative to the current market sound-absorbing materials, production of light weight, excellent physical properties, good sound-absorbing effect, long service life with sound-absorbing sheet. In comparison moisture content, and can be found in up to D sheet moisture content 9.28%, can be controlled below 13%, while in the impact st…

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    pp. 378-383 摘要
  8. 384
    仿生設計個案研究:牛仔服飾回歸自然創作設計 The Case Study of Bionic Design: Back to Nature on Jeans Creative Design
    徐秀如、*陳唯珍、郭芷妘、劉季玫
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    近年來台灣牛仔褲市值已高達新台幣50億元,牛仔褲的需求逐漸提升並且成為市場的主流趨勢。在台灣人人幾乎都擁有一件牛仔褲,台灣沒有西部牛仔,也沒有大規模的採礦人口,這樣的文化差異,卻無礙於牛仔褲在台灣受歡迎的程度。在現今牛仔褲和原始的樣貌有很大差異,經過穿著後的牛仔褲,在身體曲線的打磨下,因穿著習慣的不同而產生的色落效果。講究布料、設計感和剪裁,提高了牛仔褲的接受程度,但如果能透過一些設計,讓牛仔褲更獨一無二,巧妙溶入自然、簡單、舒壓的原素,便能付予牛仔褲新的生命及無限變化。美既存在於天地大自然中,要尋求美就要到天地大自然裡去觀察與探尋。所以本創作研究將以仿生設計為設計原理,以「回歸自然」為設計理念,天地自然物為仿生對象,以外型、顏色、圖紋特徵與藉由應用牛仔洗水工藝融合進行設計。因此本創作設計主要目的為1. 根據仿生設計原理為基礎,漸進式的應用不同的牛仔洗水工藝技法設計,表現在牛仔服飾設計中。2. 以「回歸自然」為設計理念主題,將…

    Recently, the market capitalization showed that Taiwan jeans reached NT$ 5 billion. It means that the demand of jeans gradually increased and becomes the mainstream trend of market. Almost everyone has a pair of jeans in Taiwan. Taiwan has no Cowboys. There is no large-scale mining of the population, such as cultural differences, but not prevent jeans popularity in Taiwan. There are big differences on jeans between current and original appearance. Moreover, exquisite fabrics, sense of design and tailoring, improve the degree of acceptance of jeans make jeans more unique, integrated into the n…

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    pp. 384-393 摘要
  9. 394
    改質m-TMXDI水性PU於超細纖維織物應用加工物性之研究 M-TMXDI in Aqueous PU Microfiber Fabric Application
    張明宗、李銘、吳繼仁
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    本研究係以超細纖維麂皮織物為基材,合成以四甲基苯二甲基二異氰酸酯(m-TMXDI)與多元醇聚合,選用分子量2000的長鏈聚醚為聚四亞甲基醚二醇(PTMG)藉由1.5、1.7及1.9比例的NCO/OH添加配比,並分別施以不同濃度的架橋劑與水性聚氨酯之浸漬處理,以及不同壓輥壓力之實驗條件予以壓吸處理,而後探討其水性PU成膜特性和加工布之物性研究,由實驗結果顯示:架橋劑用量對壓吸率及增重率有顯著之影響,即可以改善超細纖維麂皮織物之加工壓吸率及增重率,而且隨架橋劑濃度增加而其壓吸率及增重率均增大。另外,對於抗張強力影響方面,則以架橋劑濃度2.5%時抗張強力表現為最佳。同時,濕摩擦色牢度呈現漸進式的改善。超細纖維麂皮織物的撕裂強力平均值比原布有增加的趨勢,其表示水性PU在超細纖維麂皮織物有較佳的結合力。另外,在Martindale耐磨擦測試顯示40%水性PU加工時其耐磨程度比未經加工者最高可增加3倍。同時,經不同濃度的水性PU加工處理後…

    In this study, the Department of microfiber suede fabric substrate, tetramethyl benzene to synthesize dimethyl diisocyanate (m-TMXDI) and polymeric polyol selected molecular weight long-chain polyether 2000 is poly (tetramethylene ether) diol (PTMG) by 1.5,1.7 and 1.9 percentage of NCO / OH addition ratio, and were subjected to immersion treatment with different concentrations of cross-linking agent and the aqueous polyurethane, and experiment with different roll pressure of the suction pressure condition to be treated, then explore the aqueous film-forming properties and physical properties …

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    pp. 394-404 摘要
  10. 405
    藍色分散性染料在超臨界二氧化碳染色中對聚酯織物染色性之探討 The Investigate of Polyester Fabric Dyeing with Blue Disperse Dyes in Supercritical Carbon Dioxide
    林尚明、張凱宇、林雯逸、簡文洋、鄭喻文、趙豫州
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    在染整領域中,超臨界CO2染色是一種環保的染色方法,本研究使用藍色分散性染料於超臨界CO2中以不同壓力、溫度和時間進行染色,並比較其均染性和上色率,從染色的結果得知,超臨界CO2染色壓力要在3000 psi以上才具有良好的均染性,時間必須在1800秒以上才會得到較好的均染性,溫度在120℃ 具有最高的上色率。在進行探討同樣染色條件下,不同染料對聚酯纖維染色的結果得知,Blue 3染料在超臨界CO2染色下具有較佳的一次相對上染率。從染色堅牢度的結果得知,各染色布樣的各色種染堅牢度均可達到4級以上。

    In the field of dyeing and finishing, supercritical CO2 dyeing is an environmentally friendly dyeing method. In this study we use the blue disperse dye in supercritical CO2 dyeing at different pressures, temperatures and time and compare its levelness and color yield. From the results of that dyeing, the pressured at 3000 psi or more of supercritical CO2 dyeing to only have good levelness, the time must be 1800 seconds or more will get a better levelness, and the temperature at 120℃ will get the highest color yield. Discussion the result during the same dyeing conditions, different dyes for d…

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    pp. 405-410 全文 PDF