華岡紡織期刊 Journal of the Hwa Gang Textile
ISSN
1025-9678
發行 Publisher
中華民國紡織工程學會
卷 Vol.期 No.272

第 27 卷第 2 期(2020)

Vol. 27 No. 2 (2020)

出版日期 2020-03-28

研究論文Original Research Articles
  1. 70
    高雄市數字道路應用於安全帽的圖案設計之研究 A Graphic Design Study on Applying Numbered Road Names in Kaohsiung City To Helmet Arts
    鄭如伶、陳怡秀、曾子毓
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    高雄市有十條寬大筆直的道路,這些道路的命名與其他縣市大有不同。例如以高雄地理區域從南到北,以一至十的數字次序命名,南端以「一心路」閞始到北端至「十全路」。研究者生長自於高雄,因而對高雄市特別有一份親切感,想以充滿家鄉文化的道路典故為出發點,探討在地文化中最具有特色之一,即數字道路典故作為本文研究之對象,並結合在高雄在地的保育類動物「台灣獼猴」,希望藉由發揮創意設計產出數字道路圖案,爾後,將印製於安全帽上作為商品。

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    pp. 70-75 全文 PDF
  2. 76
    連續式大氣電漿去除羊毛毛鱗之應用 Application of continuous atmospheric plasma to remove wool scales
    1黃晟睿、2英宗宏、1邢文灝
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    本實驗使用連續式介電質屏蔽放電大氣電漿(Dielectric Barrier Discharge,DBD)處理機,此機器已達量產規模,每分鐘可處理幅寬2公尺、處理速度每分鐘0-40公尺,厚度3毫米以內之布料,共有10組電擊,每組輸出功率為每秒2000瓦。實驗處理之布料為黑色羊毛毛呢梭織布,樣本一處裡一次,樣本二處理兩次。處理後以場發式掃描電子顯微鏡(Multi-functional Field -Emission Scanning Electron Microscope,FE-SEM)放大1000倍觀察,羊毛纖維表面受離子衝擊及臭氧氧化,毛鱗有更多被破壞的現象,毛鱗破壞後降低方向摩擦效應造成的布料縮絨,達到羊毛防縮的效果。水洗收縮率與未處理羊毛梭織布水洗收縮率相比,樣本1提高3.90%,樣本2水洗收縮率提高5.86%。經處理後之黑色羊毛毛呢梭織布樣本1經向撕裂強力降低1379克,緯向撕裂強力降低349克,樣本2經向撕裂強力降低…

    This study used a continuous dielectric barrier discharge atmospheric plasma (Dielectric Barrier Discharge, DBD) system to look for a new way for eliminating or reducing the scale of wool. The air plasma machine has the width of 2 meters and can run in the speed of 0-40m/min, a total of 10 groups of electric shocks, each group output power of 2000 watts per secondThe fabrics treated in this experiment were black wool woolen woven fabrics,once in the sample 1 , sample 2 is processed twice.. After air plasma treatment, the samples were observed with a multi-functional Field-Emission Scanning E…

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    pp. 76-81 全文 PDF
  3. 82
    常見魚鱗的物性比較 Comparison of Physical Properties of Common Fish Scales
    林祐瑄、林尚明*
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    本研究目的為檢測兩種未經過處理的魚鱗,進行去皮膜去細胞處理,使魚鱗的皮膜與表面細胞去除,與再進行純化處理使魚鱗薄化?1?,藉由含水率、接觸角、熱學性質比較其物理性質上的不同,蒐集數據並分析其特性。實驗結果顯示:由SEM可得知魚鱗表面結構有四部分;兩種魚鱗去皮膜去細胞處理後含水率約為34%,台灣鯛魚鱗經過純化處理後含水率可達52.63%,明顯高於石斑魚鱗44.28%;接觸角則是有相反結果,去皮膜去細胞處理台灣鯛魚鱗接觸角較小,純化處理後石斑魚鱗接觸角較小;魚鱗的膠原蛋白熱變化溫度落於25℃~40℃之間。

    The purpose of this study is to examine two kinds of fish scale which didn’t process, by the removed film, surface cells and made it thinned by purification process. By moisture content, contact angle, thermal properties compared to their different physical properties, data collection and analysis of its characteristics. The experimental results showed that the surface structure of fish scales was divided into four parts by SEM. The moisture content of the two kinds of fish scales was about 34% after removed film. The water content of Tilapia scales reached 52.63% after purification, which w…

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    pp. 82-87 全文 PDF
  4. 88
    HRB意象色彩與NCS表色體系間關係之研究 Research on the Relationship between HRB Imagery and NCS Color System
    黃威廷、郭文貴、陳家珍、陳亭汝、洪啟竹
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    本研究旨在探討色彩與人類的視覺間的關係,並提供一種意象色彩來表達視覺上的感覺與色彩的關係,在本實驗中,我們以Hard Relax Beautiful三軸所構成的意象色彩空間來表示,並透過使用75/36的聚酯雙面布透過紅外線染色機進行染色,染色後以烘箱烘乾,再透過分光儀測量Lab值並製成表格,並依照表格數據整理成Excel後,分析各色票所代表的HRB意象色彩與Natural color system表色體系中的關係,並求出兩者間的相關性,結果顯示HRB意象色彩與NCS表色體系具有高度的相關性。

    This study aims to explore the relationship between color and human vision, and to provide an image color to express the relationship between visual perception and color. In this experiment, we express the image space composed of hard and relaxing beautiful three axes. And dyed through an infrared dyeing machine using a polyester double-sided cloth of 75/36, dyed, dried in an oven, and then measured the laboratory value by a spectrometer and tabulated it, and sorted it into Excel according to the tabular data. The relationship between the HRB image color represented by each color chart and th…

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    pp. 88-92 全文 PDF
  5. 93
    自主學習之教學應用-探討價值共創的永續教育 An Application to Self-Directed Education in Fashion - Investigating the Value Co-creation of Education for Sustainable Development
    陳華珠
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    本研究企圖藉「自主學習」的教學應用來改變現行單向知識傳遞的學習方式。主要研究目的在於探討目前教學現場的困境,並分析導入「自主學習」的可能教學應用模式。主體研究以一門大二必修課西洋織品服飾與文化為例。結果顯示:(一)、與學生互動少、學習活動單向、學習動能不足、學習視野單調、共學和分享無感是目前教學現場困境;(二)、自主學習的教/學方式能增加更多元的學習與評估以及核心能力的培養,專題的主題、內容、方向、產出成果、與課程關聯性以及結合校外資源的狀況,多元且異性質高。

    This study adapts and modifies the approach of Self-Directed Education which is also known as Autodidacticism. A class of 75 sophomore students, majoring in fashion marketing, was divided into 14 groups of 5~6 for this study. The aims of this study are first, to investigate the problems occurring in the teaching scenes and the potential application of adapting Self-Directed Education into teaching, and second, further to develop into peer learning through group projects. The results have shown that first, the five severe problems occurring in the teaching scenes are lacking of two-way interac…

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    pp. 93-100 全文 PDF
  6. 101
    以熔噴纖維再現可穿的藝術創作 Creating Wearable Art Using Melt-blown Fibers
    吳妍儀
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    熔噴纖維顧名思義是指異於傳統編織的經緯線交織方式,由環保綠色材質TPU受熱熔融,施以壓力由噴嘴噴出細絲,猶如蜘蛛或蠶吐絲一般。熔噴纖維具可回收,可分解,循環再利用的特質,用途廣泛。在時尚界發明可攜罐式噴織纖維是西班牙籍設計師Manel Torres,開發「Spray on Fabric」的方式,成立了Fabrican Limited 公司,並舉行時尚科技服裝秀,在時尚界掀起一股驚豔風潮。台灣紡織綜合研究所 (Taiwan Textile Research Institute簡稱紡織所TTRI) 研發出熔噴纖維並註冊專利,生產製造各種應用產品,並讓時尚學界趨之若鶩。至目前為止已有不少學生、學者與紡織所合作,各自創造出不同風貌的作品。本研究也是在2013年與紡織所合作,期間歷經過幾個月的反覆實驗練習,作品經由模型製作、噴織、脫模、後加工,最後成為可穿戴式服飾。如其他創作者大家皆在短時內即刻發表作品,本噴織創作也在同合作的一年於國立…

    Distinct from the traditional warp-and-weft weaving method, melt-blown fibers, as the name suggests, refers to the process of melting down Thermoplastic Polyurethane (TPU), an eco-friendly material, and extruding micro- and nanofibers from nozzles, just like spiders or silkworms spinning silk. With their recyclable, decomposable, and reusable qualities, melt-blown fibers have a wide range of applications. For instance, in the fashion industry, Manel Torres, a Spanish designer, invented portable canned spray-on fibers. He and his friends developed “spray-on fabric,” founded Fabrican Ltd., and …

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    pp. 101-107 全文 PDF
  7. 108
    纏花技藝應用於婚紗服飾設計之研究 The Application on the Technique of Twined Flower in Wedding Dress Design
    林卿慧、李宜臻
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    「纏花」是以絲線繞合在紙片和鐵絲上,由多片花葉組成的手工造花,客家族群稱此藝為「纏花」,閩南族群則稱為「春仔花」,由於地域差異與人文背景不同,閩南春仔花與客家纏花各發展出獨特的風格。早期客家纏花應用範圍相當廣泛,而閩南纏花在婚禮習俗中扮演相當重要的角色,如今此項精緻的工藝技術因為時代變遷,工商社會講求速度、時效的當前,年輕人對於傳統文化藝術的忽略,導致客家精緻纏花技術幾乎失傳。 本研究以傳統工藝-纏花與婚紗服飾結合創新做為研究背景,經由瞭解纏花的歷史及傳統意義,去探討如何以纏花技藝應用於婚紗服飾設計,並透過文獻探討與整合分析,將纏花工藝結合現代服飾品設計的概念設計研發兼具文化藝術性與現代實用性之婚紗服飾,期能振興傳統纏花工藝的技法,使文化與現代彼此相依相存的永續下去,整體之設計過程及創作成果,提供相關研究者及產業有不同之造型設計思考。

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    pp. 108-113 全文 PDF
  8. 114
    透濕防水梭織布的阻熱研究 The Thermal resistance of Breathable and waterproof Woven Fabrics
    S. P. Chen﹐C. J. Niu﹐C. H. Tsai, W. H. Hsing
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    研究根據CNS 5611及TN-037標準,模擬環境溫度20±2℃、相對濕度65±4%,在燈照溫度35℃下,測試五種包括C6+微多孔淺藍色、C6+微多孔黑色、親水白膜紫色、親水白膜黑色、親水透明藍色,之不同靜水壓值、透濕度的透濕防水梭織布,在乾濕狀態的阻熱效果,及根據FTTS-FA-019標準測量Q-max值,結果得知,透濕防水梭織布阻熱溫度最高為C6+微多孔淺藍的5.98℃,Q-max值最高為親水透明藍色0.259。

    According to the standards of CNS 5611 and TN-037, this study simulates an ambient temperature of 20 ± 2 ℃ and a relative humidity of 65 ± 4%. At a lamp temperature of 35 ℃, five kinds different breathable and waterproof woven fabrics, including C6 + microporous light blue, C6 + microporous black, white film purple, hydrophilic white film black, hydrophilic transparent blue, heat resistance effect in dry and wet conditions are tested., and Q-max value according to FTTS-FA-019 standard. The results show, that the maximum heat resistance temperature of breathable and waterproof woven fabrics t…

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    pp. 114-120 全文 PDF
  9. 121
    不同含量馬來酸酐接枝聚丙烯對聚乳酸/聚苯乙烯-聚乙烯-聚丁烯摻合物相容性改善 Preparation Technology and Characterization of Polylactic Acid/Polystyrene-Polyethylene-Polybutylene Blends with Different Contents of Maleic Anhydride Grafted Polypropylene
    鄭喬薺、張家綺、樓靜文、林佳弘
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    本實驗以聚苯乙烯-乙烯-丁烯-苯乙烯嵌段共聚物 (SEBS) 彈性體高分子為增韌劑,以馬來酸酐接枝聚丙烯 (PP-g-MA) 為相容劑,對脆性聚酯材料聚乳酸 (Polylactide, PLA) 進行改質。改變其混合比例,透過單螺桿造粒機及射出成型機製備PLA/SEBS/PP-g-MA複合材料,以探討不同混合比例對於機械性質與熱性能的影響及PP-g-MA含量對PLA與SEBS之間相容性的影響。由結果顯示,PLA/SEBS/PP-g-MA混合比例為39/60/1,衝擊強度為315.63 J/m?,達到顯著增韌之效果,改善PLA的脆性問題,並且由SEM測試中表現其增韌機制。而PLA/SEBS/PP-g-MA複合材料中,SEBS的存在改善其共混物可能存在熱穩定性不足之缺點,使熔點提升至約174℃。

    In this experiment, polystyrene-ethylene-butylene-styrene block copolymer (SEBS) elastomer polymer was used as a toughening agent, and maleic anhydride grafted polypropylene (PP-g-MA) was used as a compatibilizer. The polylactic acid (Polylactide, PLA), a brittle polyester material, was modified. The mixing ratio was changed, and PLA/SEBS/PP-g-MA composites were prepared by single-screw granulator and injection molding machine to investigate the effects of different mixing ratios on mechanical properties and thermal properties and PP-g-MA content on PLA. The impact of compatibility with SEBS.…

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    pp. 121-126 全文 PDF
  10. 127
    pp. 127-136 全文 PDF